Bangalore (or Bengaluru), the capital of Karnataka in India, has gone by many names over the last 500 years. The city founded by Kempegowda I was also a cantonment for the British in India. In the last fifty years, it has been known as Pensioners’ Paradise, Garden City, Pub City, and now the Silicon Valley of India. Yet the real Bangalore is all of that, and more, as local expert Christina Daniels shows us…
Upon Arrival in Bangalore, India
After a visitor arrives in my city, I always recommend going straight to Koshy’s on St Mark’s Road to meet the quintessential Bangalorean. Koshy’s is not just a café. It’s a keeper of memories, and the best place to experience the city’s vibrant intellectual and cultural character. You could then walk down to Blossom Book House on Church Street. Somewhere between the two, you’ll find the soul of Bangalore.
The best time to be in this part of town is between 7am and 10am. Of course, any time is special here. Koshy’s breakfast has a magical charm, and over the course of the day you could meet the city’s writers, artists, and filmmakers. But evenings give you a city vibe. That’s when regulars descend on the café and the neighbourhood is alive with the vibrant energy that makes Bangalore special.
I tell first-time travellers to seek out places that reflect Bangalore’s heritage and where you can meet its people. So, besides the popular landmarks, visit Bangalore’s cafés, bookshops, and performance spaces. I also tell them to avoid IT parks, peak-hour traffic, and shopping malls.
People from here know better than to follow the main roads. Instead, they would rather take the side roads. They know the secret shortcuts are the best way to get to any place quickly. It’s also where you find the best parts of the city.
The best museum to start your journey and get a good sense of this city is Apaulogy. Strictly speaking, Apaulogy is not a museum. It’s a gallery from one of Bangalore’s most-loved cartoonists, Paul Fernandes, telling the city’s history through his paintings. Bangalore’s official museum is the Government Museum on Kasturba Road, which is okay. But Apaulogy tells the Bangalore story better.
Parents should take their kids to Cubbon Park because that’s where they experience how to be close to nature even in a big city. They could get on the biofueled toy train that runs through parts of this 300-acre park. Also stop by the Jawaharlal Nehru Planetarium on Sankey Road and visit the HAL Heritage Centre and Aerospace Museum. It’s a great way to introduce your child to aviation technology, all wrapped in the spirit of Bangalore.
Food from the Heart
Among the food (or dishes) my city is most proud of, masala dosa with a filter coffee is an absolute must. That’s a crispy rice crepe with a spicy potato filling. Coffee made in the traditional Bangalorean way, where it is brewed through a filter, makes the experience more complete. Most streets have traditional restaurants that serve dosas. But I go to The Filter Coffee to really enjoy one. They have many varieties, inspired by traditional recipes. They’ve also perfected the art of making chutney, the spread that accompanies a dosa. As most connoisseurs will tell you, it’s actually chutney that makes a dosa unique.
When we get together to celebrate, beer is what people here traditionally drink. As India’s Pub City, Bangalore has many pub options. I meet my friends at old-time favourite Pecos when they congregate for a round. I also invite friends to Byg Brewski and Toit. These aren’t just pubs. They are microbreweries, which make their own beer.
When I eat completely local, I will go to MTR, as Mavalli Tiffin Rooms is better known. It turned 100 last year, but I know the food here still tastes like it was made in a traditional Bangalore kitchen.
Other classic, iconic restaurants include The Only Place and Lakeview Milk Bar. The Only Place is one of Bangalore’s earliest open-air restaurants. It’s where the city has been going for steaks made in a uniquely Bangalorean way for half a century, while Lakeview has been churning ice cream for Bangalore as long as MTR has been serving dosas. Its unique recipes are served only in Bangalore.
The part of town where locals come for traditional food is Jayanagar 4th Block, especially if you are vegetarian. But, for meat lovers, Shivaji Nagar is the place to go. If you happen to visit during the month of Ramadan, all roads lead to Mosque Road in Frazer Town, which is alive with traditional favourites from Bangalore’s Muslim community.
Shopping Locally
My city is known for making software, beer, and filter coffee. We are home to Kingfisher, a local beer made by India’s largest brewery; United Breweries, also from Bangalore. But as the capital of Karnataka, we are equally proud of our sandalwood handicrafts and handmade Channapatna toys. It’s named after the craftsmanship style of Channapatna, just outside Bangalore.
The best food market in Bangalore is VV Puram Food Street, with over 20 stalls. And the best market to buy everyday items, from raisins to jewellery, is Commercial Street. Whatever you do, don’t hesitate to stray from the main street: that’s where you find the best deals.
I always take visitors to Cauvery Emporium to buy real, local souvenirs. The products are authentic and handcrafted by local artisans. That makes them unique. And we know to avoid big malls because they are usually overpriced and homogeneous.
Getting Deeper Into City
A great book to learn more about my city is Peter Colaco’s Bangalore. There are other books as well. But Peter does it best. The book illustrated by the cartoonist Paul Fernandes is also a special piece of art from Bangalore to the world.
Most people know about and visit Central Bangalore, but South Bangalore and the Cantonment should also be visited because this gives you the complete Bangalore story.
My city is a place people are attracted to because of its fabulous career opportunities and great weather. But there is so much more for visitors to this city!
To really celebrate my city at its best, come in December because that’s when the city lights up, metaphorically and literally. Every city in India has a festival that it claims as its own. For Bangalore, it’s Christmas, since this was a British cantonment. This is when traditional charity bazaars and choirs happen every day. It’s also a sight to see the city centre illuminated in the last two weeks of December.
Most people think of my city as India’s Silicon Valley, but really this is also a city where writers, musicians, artists, filmmakers, and photographers create their best work.
This is one of the best places in the world to experience performances in a personal space, accompanied by a filter coffee or beer, and a great debate. Locals are proud of that because here, art is not elite. It is for every Bangalorean.
Getting Around Bangalore
One thing you should know about getting around my city is that there is more to Bangalore than its peak-hour traffic. You can beat it by avoiding peak hours and main roads. That’s when you discover the city still has the tranquillity that made it the Pensioners’ Paradise.
The best way to travel in my city to have as little impact as possible is to use the Metro (called ‘Namma Metro’, meaning Our Metro) in Central Bangalore and for visiting the city’s main sites. Not everyone realises that they are connected now.
Luckily this method of transportation also allows me to get the best views. Unlike, many parts of the world, Bangalore’s metro runs way above the ground. So, it’s your best aerial view of some of the prettiest parts of the city.
Outside The City
To get away and into the outdoors, I like to ride to Nandi Hills. I enjoy exploring the wineries on the city outskirts. But Bangalore also has large green spaces within the city, like Cubbon Park and Lal Bagh. I love sitting at open-air restaurants like the Airlines Hotel. It’s surreal to be sitting amidst its gigantic banyan trees in the heart of the city.
For a day trip just beyond my city, I like to visit Mysore. I also enjoy the bus tour by the state tourism department that combines the ancient cities of Belur, Halebidu, and Shravanabelagola. Another personal favourite is the Lepakshi Temple in neighbouring Andhra Pradesh. It’s a rare chance to get a 400-year-old temple all to yourself.
Many people will head to Mysore directly, but locals know to go to Seringapatam first. On the way, they know they can take a detour at the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary or the Kokkare Belluru village to see the painted stork nesting. The best place for food is Kamat Lokaruchi, with typical Karnataka cuisine in a traditional setting.
I really enjoy the view of my city from 13th Floor at Hotel Ivory Tower in Barton Centre. But the best-kept secret for views is still the Metro.
Connecting with Locals
When I want to have fun and celebrate being out in my city, I go to Urban Solace. This isn’t just a place that serves food, it curates experiences. Stand-up comedy in the city started here. Urban Solace also hosts India’s longest-running poetry event, Tuesdays with the Bard.
To hang out with my friends and go to a real insider spot, I head to events at performance spaces where I sit down for long discussions after the event. Some of my favourites are Rangshankara and Jagrithi for theatre, Atta Galatta for books, and Urban Solace for the arts.
The best resource for finding out what’s going on around town is Book My Show and local newspapers like The Deccan Herald and The Times of India. An overlooked source is noticeboards. Most old coffee shops and cultural centres have them.
When I want to enjoy my city without spending much (or any) money, I walk down the Promenade to the Central Library. This elevated stretch through the city centre gives you a bird’s-eye view of Bangalore’s oldest establishments. The path leads through Cubbon Park to the century-old library, stacked with books and full of old-world charm. It’s a place for contemplation, and it’s free.
Hard Rock Café is my first choice for music because of its unique ambience in a 100-year-old building with a colourful history, which it preserves. Now, live bands play in this old Gothic structure. But what I enjoy most are karaoke evenings with a local Karaoke Jockey. And when I feel like dancing, I go to Skylounge, not just for the dance floor, but the view.
Finding Solitude in Bangalore
When I want to go somewhere to sit and relax in my incredible city, I go to a garden, a lake or a café. Every area in Bangalore has its own garden. Two lakes I visit are Ulsoor Lake and Sankey Tank. To enjoy a garden, lake, and café all rolled into one, I go to the cafés dotting Ulsoor Lake.
The place that makes me proudest of my city is every place where trees thrive, because these green spaces make this city unlike any other. It also gives the city its famous weather.
When the Seasons Change, This City Shines
Spring (Late January to early March) is the best time to watch Bangalore bloom. Of course, my city blooms through the year. But January and February are when the Tabebuia rosea flowers, transforming the city into a sea of pink.
I always recommend visitors enjoy Bangalore’s gardens in the summer (Late March-May). That’s when the Tabebuia argentea, the rain tree, and the jacaranda bloom. By May, the Gulmohar trees have turned Bangalore orange. It’s easy to see why Bangalore is India’s Garden City.
The monsoons (June to September) here are magical when you are sitting inside, with a warm cup of tea and a book and watching it rain outside. That’s when Bangalore’s weather shines. But it’s no fun when you are caught outside!
The winter (October-Early January) is a great time to celebrate. Now, the rains vanish, leaving a lasting coolness. Then festival season begins… Dussehra, Diwali, Christmas and finally New Year. Under the winter skies, Bangalore comes alive.
