Being one of the lesser-visited countries in Europe when it comes to tourism, wealthy-but-tiny Luxembourg has a main claim to fame as a banking and finance hub. However, one of the richest countries in the world surprised me with how environmentally friendly it is.
My first impression of green and welcoming Luxembourg stays with me, bringing a smile, albeit it was the sight of a Luxair-Boeing 737 parked at the airport as I alighted from my flight. It wasn’t your average 737; the exterior was spray-painted, covered in bright and cheerful urban art interspersed with happy phrases. ‘Time for a Holiday’, ‘Relax’, ‘Up and Away’, and ‘Out of Office’ set the tone for a leisurely vacation.
Indeed, how relaxed I was, for there was no hassle of buying a bus ticket or booking online. I could hop on any of the buses heading towards Luxembourg City, the eponymous capital of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.
This small, central European country has taken sustainable and accessible transportation seriously. By March 2020, all public transportation was free for commuters nationwide, even for tourists. It was done to encourage people to switch to public transit, so fewer private cars ply the roads, lowering carbon emissions and decongesting traffic.
For a tourist like me, it was so convenient. Once I downloaded the Mobiliteit transport app for bus and tram routes, and all information about trains, I was on my own. If I wanted to go hiking, running and biking or looking for youth hostels and campsites to stay in, the information was just a click away.
One of the first hiking trails I went for was the CFL Manternacher Fiels. I took a train to Manternach train station, walked down to the charming village, stopping at a Wiewesch nature reserve centre. There was no one inside. I looked around the 19th-century farmhouse packed with agricultural tools and stuffed animals preserved by taxidermy. Perhaps a lesson on ecology and farming.
When I reached the village outskirts, I found a well-signposted hiking trail which guided me further towards a meadow, an orchard, and then uphill through the wild ravine forest. A few hikers passed by who intend to cover the entire 11.5 km trail, ending at Wasserbillig station. I turned back, for I had to reach Luxembourg City by evening.
However, I learnt all about Luxembourg’s well-marked hiking and biking trails across the beautiful country, including CFL trails, the designated routes that always lead from station to station.
The next two days, I headed to the southern Minett region, the heart of Luxembourg’s industrial heritage. The sweat and toil of the workers, the bellowing smoke from the blast furnaces and the glowing red iron ores in the open-cast mine brought immense wealth to the nation.
Lovingly preserving its steel past, Luxembourg has moved on. The mines are reclaimed by nature and rewilding, red rocky terrain now has mountain biking trails, and the conserved blast furnace of Belval stands on a university campus.
Imagine climbing a blast furnace and seeing the university library that was incorporated into the old iron-processing hall. It was amazing to see how the industrial structures have been repurposed for modern use.
Another interesting learning was knowing the youth hostels in Luxembourg follow a holistic and sustainable philosophy – serving seasonal and local food that is fairly produced.
The people, by and large, are environmentally conscious, outdoorsy and fun-loving. Multicultural, multilingual and multifaceted they are. One night, I strolled into a cosy bar, attracted by its lively atmosphere, even though I am a teetotaller. It was the Pitcher, an iconic hangout for locals. I had one of the best cups of coffee and a great time.
On my next summer visit, I chose to stay in Luxembourg City. The city was pulsating with energy, skateboarding, biking, games and musical evenings at night, with cafés and bars full of people.
I walked around the old city, on cobblestone paths and winding roads that invariably led to parks, forests or green spaces. The topography of Luxembourg City is layered; it is fascinating to look out from vantage points that command spectacular views and see the many strata.
I loved to hang out at the Chemin de la Corniche, known as the most beautiful balcony in Europe, built on a 17th-century rampart that runs along the Alzette valley. I got an all-around view of the valley, the Grund district and the gorgeous Rham plateau.
Historically, the city has gone through the rule of the Spaniards, Austrians, Germans and French, each building their own defence fortifications, thus earning it the sobriquet of the Gibraltar of the North. The old quarters, which remained formidable from the 16th to the 19th centuries, are designated a UNESCO Heritage site.
It was thrilling to walk inside the medieval fortified tunnels, the Bock casemates, dug into sandstone, which once housed the garrison. Later, during World War II, it saved thousands of people from bombings.
But summer was the time to go out in the wild, and I discovered a whole new world beyond the city. In the forested Ardennes region of northern Eislek, the high plateaus and rocky valleys were great for hiking.
A short trek to the 11th-century Vianden castle, perched on a hill overlooking the Our River valley, was worth the effort.
However, the highlight of my trip was staying at Rosport campsite in the Mullerthal region. Nothing could be more rejuvenating than emerging from your cosy wooden pod by the side of the River Sure, surrounded by forests and hills around you.
Hiking through the verdant meadows and forest, climbing hills to find spectacular sandstone rocks with narrow gaps and deep gorges, a surprise awaited around every turn.
In Luxembourg, I felt so connected with nature. I have visited twice now, during spring and summer, and I still haven’t had enough of it. Autumn and winter revisits await, and I am sure it will be as enchanting – and environmentally friendly – as ever.
