Malta might be the world’s tenth-smallest country, but it packs a culinary punch well above its weight. Located in a prime strategic spot in the Mediterranean, it has been subject to myriad cultural influences, including Roman, Arabic, Spanish, French and most recently, British. I travelled there to do some delicious firsthand research on Malta’s array of local pastry delicacies.
A close neighbour to Sicily, Maltese cuisine is a fabulous melting pot of Mediterranean flavours, relying heavily on locally sourced products. Maltese breads and pastries perfectly demonstrate that cultural diversity. And I did my best to sample them all…
Pastizzi, Malta’s Savoury Favourite
Every nation has its favourite savoury pastry. There is a universal joy in a delicious filling encased in a crumbly, moreish pastry — whether that’s a Cornish Pasty, an Empanada or, in Malta’s case, a Pastizz.
Made from filo pastry, they are traditionally filled with either ricotta cheese or peas. To avoid a game of ‘pastry roulette’ the Maltese bakers have devised a clever way to differentiate the two fillings; a shell-like pastizz (round at one side with a straight edge on the other) is the pea filling while the diamond-shaped version holds the ricotta. Though they are a breakfast favourite, they are enjoyed throughout the day because they are affordable and easy to eat on the move.
Pastizzi shops are ubiquitous across the island — it’s hard to walk 500 metres without passing one, and because they are cheap (50 cents) I could easily have become addicted! You can also pick them up from most cafés and supermarkets.
Ftira, the Ultimate Breakfast Sandwich
The ftira is a local staple; it’s the foundation of many meals and snacks throughout the day. The name ftira derives from the Arabic fatir, which means unleavened bread (a type of flat bread made without any raising agents, like yeast). It’s the only type of Maltese bread still made by hand, based on age-old traditions. It’s such an essential part of Maltese life and culture that in 2020 it was included in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
Circular in shape, it has a thick and crusty exterior which gives way to a softer inside. Ftiras are traditionally used to make sandwiches and are commonly filled with Mediterranean ingredients like olives, tomatoes and capers with tuna. Nowadays you can find ftiras filled with anything from Parma ham to bacon and egg.
Gozo, the second largest island in Malta’s archipelago, has its own unique take on this much-beloved bread. Gozitan ftira (ftira Ghawdxija) resembles a pizza — using the ftira bread as a base, usually with toppings like cheese, potatoes, anchovies or tomatoes. I was won over with the first bite!
Anyone with a sweet tooth needn’t feel left out — Malta offers its own unique sweets based on its multicultural history.
Qagħaq tal-Għasel (Honey Rings)
Honey rings are a Maltese treat traditionally associated with Christmas, but due to their popularity, they are now widely available throughout the year. They look similar to a bagel, (circular with a hole in the middle) but that’s where the similarity ends. They are sweet rather than savoury, but don’t be fooled — there is no honey involved!
As a huge honey fan, I have to confess I was a little disappointed when I tried one for the first time. In fact, they’re filled with a sweet thick treacle which in Maltese is known as għasel iswed (black honey), hence the ‘honey rings’ name. You can buy them in most local bakeries and supermarkets, and thanks to Malta’s historic association with the UK, they are often enjoyed with a cup of tea.
Biskuttini tar-Rahal (Village Biscuits)
Village biscuits are also known as christening biscuits as they are traditionally baked to celebrate… christenings! They resemble iced biscuits and taste similar to gingerbread (as they are made with cinnamon and cloves). Ordinarily, they are decorated with generous swirls of white icing, but when baked to celebrate a christening, the colour of the icing was traditionally changed to pink or blue according to the sex of the baby. A local vendor told me that she gets requests for a variety of colours these days.
Imqaret (Date Cakes)
The Imqaret is a traditional Maltese sweet which connects the country to its historic Arabic influences. Rectangular deep-fried pastry hides an interior stuffed with dates. Imqaret can be found in street markets and village feasts but can also be sourced from more ordinary everyday outlets like bakeries and supermarkets. They are sometimes served with ice cream.
With so many traditional treats to explore, whether your preference runs to sweet or savoury, Malta offers a pastry for every palate. And in the name of science, I’m still conducting my own personal research!
