In a destination famous for its hospitality, it’s no surprise that the first meal of the day in Nova Scotia is a generous affair. But does this small province in Eastern Canada have a signature dish? That depends entirely on where you are and who you ask! The food scene here is as diverse as it is delicious.
Whether you’re into sweet, savoury, or salty fare, all early-morning Nova Scotian meals have two things in common: they’re big on comfort and they’re all about a sense of community. Oh, and it must be said: there will probably be some carbohydrates involved. Lots of them!
Biscuits and Molasses
As a native Nova Scotian, I can confirm that if there’s anything more comforting to us than a plate of fresh, warm, fluffy biscuits, melting butter, and sweet, astringent molasses, we’ve yet to find it. Today, the dish has an air of luxury to it, as the rich, creamy butter melts into the soft, sweet crumbs of the biscuits. But the dish has decidedly working-class roots, and this easy, frugal dish has a real stick-to-your-ribs quality to it. The iron-rich molasses provides a nutritional heft lacking in jam. And if you don’t have biscuits, you can always turn to Chéticamp bread.
Chéticamp Bread
When I’m in the neighbourhood, I can’t resist dropping into the family-owned Aucoin Bakery in Petit Étang (along the Cabot Trail just outside Chéticamp, in northern Cape Breton Island). A Nova Scotia icon for decades, they make Acadian-style meat pies, sweets, squares, doughnuts, and buns — but for most of Cape Breton Island and much of the northern mainland, the main event is “Cheticamp bread”. The thick, wholesome loaves are available in white, oat, whole wheat, raisin, rye, and many more. What to choose? No matter which variety ends up in my paper bag, it’s perfection when toasted with butter and molasses, or fittingly transformed into fantastic French toast.
Fishcakes and Beans
At Halifax’s finest hotels, you’ll find local smoked salmon and poached lobster tails on the breakfast menu; but for most Nova Scotians, breakfast seafood is a rarity. One exception is fishcakes, a dish we love at any time of day. This filling combination of fish, mashed potatoes, onions, seasoning, and perhaps a few leftover veggies is pan-fried until the outside is crispy and served alongside chow-chow (a local green tomato condiment). At breakfast, homemade baked beans are a typical side dish and, yep, they’re made with molasses!
Community Pancake Breakfasts and Hunter’s Breakfasts
Bacon, eggs, toast and hashbrowns are as popular in Nova Scotia as in any other destination in North America. But when you visit an autumn “hunter’s breakfast” here, you’ll see this classic combination reach new heights. These early morning feasts, often organised as fundraisers for community halls, offer huge portions at a reasonable price and you definitely don’t have to be part of a hunting party to indulge. In fact, based on my own personal experience, I’d say that most attendees have no intention whatsoever of heading out into the woods. We’re just there to support a good cause and partake of the delicious food, which often includes ham, beans, sausages, pancakes, and fruit.
The hunter’s breakfast’s summertime counterpart is the church hall pancake breakfast. It’s more commonly served during brunch hours and consists of pancakes, ham or sausage, and giant urns of tea. Expect big portions, a bustling crowd, and plenty of refills in your cup.
Tea (with Oatcakes or Fat Archies)
Some folks are breakfast lovers and others, well, not so much — so it’s not surprising to hear locals demur “Just a cup of tea for me”. We Nova Scotians might like coffee but, we absolutely love tea. It’s always orange pekoe, always brewed strong, with minimal milk and sugar to taste. To serve a weak brew is a bonafide character flaw and any temperature other than scalding hot is unacceptable.
If the breakfast tea is served mid-morning or later, it’s usually accompanied by a sweet (albeit one that’s not too sweet!). Fat Archies (also known as Pubnicos) are a thick, hearty molasses cookie that’s a popular choice. Another favourite hereabouts is oatcakes. Served sturdy and thick on the mainland or thin and delicate on Cape Breton, they offer just the right amount of subtle sweetness to accompany the tea.
Bed Lunch
When I reached out to my fellow Nova Scotians for their favourite breakfast memories, they all spoke about another meal altogether, one that could be considered a kind of pre-breakfast if you will. In Nova Scotia, we eat bed lunch. Well, those of us with common sense do. Bed lunch is exactly what the name implies, a little lunch you have just before bed. Bed lunch is commonly a slice of hot buttered toast and jam (or molasses!) with a cup of tea before you retire. Children love buttered bread sprinkled with sugar and a glass of milk. Post-gig musicians and late-night kitchen party attendees might watch the sunrise with exactly the same thing, or maybe a small version of a cold plate (cold sliced meats, bread rolls, salads, and condiments like chow-chow and mustard pickles). It’s not so much about the exact time of day or circumstances, but more about celebrating what every Nova Scotian meal offers up: a sense of community and comfort.
Got room for more?
- Travel with your senses to the Big Apple for a bagel
- Learn about The Gambia’s educational breakfast
- Warm up with a hearty start in Scotland
- Start your day with abundance on the Emerald Isle
- Enjoy a plant-based morning feast in North Carolina
