Rare Rhinos, Vast Savannah, and a Mighty Waterfall in Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda
The Nile plunges into the ‘Devil’s Cauldron’, creating a trademark rainbow. | Photo: Jonathan Gohner

Rare Rhinos, Vast Savannah, and a Mighty Waterfall in Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

In exploring Murchison Falls National Park, visitors can dive into the wonders of the largest protected natural area in Uganda. This place of incredible beauty is home to the world’s most powerful waterfall, Murchison Falls. Situated along the banks of the majestic Nile River, the park offers a mesmerising blend of wildlife, breathtaking landscapes, and an opportunity to connect with nature responsibly.

~ This guide is a collaboration between local expert Aisha Nabwanika and frequent visitor Susan Onyango ~

Uganda

Upon Arrival

After a visitor arrives in my area, I always recommend going straight to the breathtaking Murchison Falls because they portray the stunning power of nature and represent the pride of the local community in Uganda’s natural heritage.

I tell first-time travellers to set out on a thrilling game drive to explore the vast savannah plains and encounter the diverse wildlife that inhabits the national park. While they’re at it, I also remind them to avoid littering or disturbing the wildlife.

People from here know better than to exploit the wildlife for personal gain. Instead, they would rather engage in sustainable practices such as community-based tourism initiatives and support the local economy through responsible tourism.

The best place to start your journey and get a good sense of this place is the Visitor Centre at Murchison Falls National Park because it provides comprehensive information about the park’s rich history, diverse wildlife and stunning natural attractions. You’ll find interactive exhibits, informative displays and knowledgeable guides who can provide insights into the park’s ecological significance and conservation efforts. 

Parents should take their kids to the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary located near Murchison Falls National Park for a unique opportunity to see the critically endangered white rhino up close. This conservation project not only safeguards these magnificent creatures but also promotes community involvement and education, instilling a sense of responsibility and pride in the next generation.

Food from the Heart

Among the dishes we are most proud of, rolex — a Uganda speciality where a combination of eggs and vegetables are rolled up in a chapati — is an absolute must. To really enjoy it, I send visitors to the bustling street stalls near the national park entrance.

When we get together to celebrate, waragi is what people here traditionally drink. I like to gather my friends and go to the lively local bar known as King’s Bar for a round of this Ugandan gin, infused with regional botanicals. 

When I eat completely local, I will go to Queen’s restaurant. I know the food here is prepared using traditional recipes and fresh ingredients sourced from the nearby communities.

Another two classic, iconic restaurants include Green Nile Restaurant Pakwach Uganda and Paraa Safari Lodge Restaurant. Not only do they offer delectable dishes but also provide stunning views of the Nile River and the national park.

The part of town where locals come for traditional food is Pakwach Town. Here, you’ll find a variety of small eateries and local food vendors serving authentic Ugandan food, including staples like matooke (boiled and mashed plantains), groundnut stew, and various meat and fish dishes. 

Shopping Locally

The surrounding community is known for making exquisite handmade crafts and artworks, showcasing their creativity and craftsmanship.

The best food market in the area is in the nearby town of Masindi. And the best market to buy everyday items like handmade soaps, organic honey and locally produced textiles is Pakwach Craft Market. 

I always take visitors to the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary’s gift shop to buy real, local souvenirs. The products here, such as handmade crafts, artwork and clothing, are created by local communities and directly support rhino conservation efforts. And we know to avoid purchasing wildlife products such as animal skins because they contribute to the illegal wildlife trade and endanger the park’s precious biodiversity.

Getting Deeper Into Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

A great book to learn more about this remarkable national park is Murchison Falls National Park: Uganda’s Untamed Wilderness by John D. McNutt.

Most people know about the iconic Murchison Falls but they should also visit the lesser-known Kaniyo Pabidi Forest, a home to a habituated community of chimpanzees that allows visitors to engage in responsible primate tourism while supporting conservation initiatives. This area of mahogany forest is also a birders’ paradise, with many rare species to spot.

The national park is a place people are attracted to because of its incredible biodiversity and the extraordinary landscapes that unfold at every turn.

Most people think of Murchison Falls as a place to casually observe wildlife, but really this is a destination to commune with nature on a profound level, appreciate the delicate balance of ecosystems, and to understand the importance of conservation.

This is one of the best places in the world to experience the raw power of nature through the thundering falls and the unspoilt beauty of the landscape reflected in the diversity of wildlife and the protection of rare species. Locals are proud of that because it showcases the resilience of their community and their commitment to safeguarding the natural heritage of the region.

Getting Around Murchison Falls National Park

One thing you should know about getting around the area is that guided safaris and tours are highly recommended.

The best way to travel here and have as little impact as possible is by using the more eco-friendly modes of transportation, such as open safari vehicles or boats. 

Luckily these methods also allow visitors to fully plunge into the sights, sounds and smells of the park. Being open to the elements and immersed in the environment enhances the overall safari experience, enabling you to connect with nature in a more close-up and personal way.

Inside and Outside the Park

To get away and into the outdoors, I like to enjoy a nature walk along the designated trails within Murchison Falls National Park.

For a day trip just beyond my area, I like to visit the Budongo Central Forest Reserve. This magnificent tropical rainforest is renowned for its rich biodiversity, including a thriving population of chimpanzees. 

Many people will head to the main Murchison Falls viewpoint, but locals know to go to the Top of the Falls.

I really enjoy the view from Paraa Hill. This elevated viewpoint offers a sweeping vista of the park’s vast savannah plains, the meandering Nile River and the distant rolling hills.

Connecting with Locals

When I want to have fun and celebrate being in this special place, I join in the traditional dances and music performances organized by the local communities often held around campfires in the evenings.

To hang out with my friends and go to a real insider spot, I go to the nearby town of Bulisa where I visit the local markets.

The best resource for finding out what’s going on around town (events) is the community notice boards located in major towns near Murchison Falls National Park.

When I want to enjoy Murchison Falls without spending much (or any) money, I go on self-guided walking safaris. The park offers a network of well-marked trails that allow visitors to explore on foot, taking in the sights, sounds, and scents of the wilderness at their own pace. 

The local communities often organise traditional music performances and dances at the Nile Safari Lodge, my first choice for music because it hosts regular cultural nights featuring live music played by talented local artists. And when I feel like dancing, I go to the lodge’s vibrant dance floor to get into the groove with traditional and contemporary African music.

Finding Solitude in Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

When I want to go somewhere particularly peaceful to sit and relax, I go to the Nile River’s banks.

The place that makes me proudest of this area is the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, a dedicated conservation area for the endangered white rhinoceros. They offer rhino trekking as well as birding tours, nature hikes, and night-time nature walks plus a shoebill trek and canoe ride.

When the Seasons Change, This Landscape Shines

Uganda’s climate has two dry seasons (December to February and June to August) and two wet seasons (September to November and March to May).

January to March is the best time to experience birding safaris during the drier weather. As April and May are during the low season, there is the advantage of fewer visitors and rates can be lower as well.

From June to August I always recommend visitors embark on boat safaris along the Nile River. These dry-season months offer pleasant temperatures and clear skies, making it an ideal time to explore the park’s waterways. 

September to November is magical here as encouraged by rainfall, the landscape grows lush with greenery, while birdlife activity increases during their breeding season. Then towards the end of this period the wet season comes to a close and water levels recede, leaving the park’s areas at their most accessible.

The dry season (December to February) is great for game drives in Murchison Falls National Park. It’s easier to witness the grandeur of the falls and at the same time spot wildlife congregating around the Nile River. With the drier weather, animals gather around the remaining water sources, providing excellent opportunities for sightings.

Susan Onyango

Local Expert

Susan Onyango is a young African woman hailing from Kenya. A travel enthusiast and a responsible tourism ambassador passionate about tourism in East Africa, Susan has an academic background in Mass Communication with a major in Public Relations. For over a year now, she has been working in the tourism industry in Kenya. Her most recent professional engagements have been with Ecotourism Kenya, Tierranjani Africa and Kenya Utalii College


Aisha Nabwanika

Local Expert

Aisha Nabwanika is the founder and CEO of Ewaffe Cultural Village, an eco-cultural tourism centre. Located just an hour's drive from Kampala, Uganda, the village is a gateway to a world where food tourism and cultural immersion unite. Aisha holds a bachelor’s degree in Commerce and is currently pursuing her master’s degree in Business Administration (MBA) from Makerere University Business School. She has served as an Administrator at Uganda Tourism Association (UTA), and her passion lies in cultural tourism development and climate education.

    Time to Read:  7 Minutes
    Local Expert(s): Susan Onyango and Aisha Nabwanika
    17 May 2024
    Category:
    Destination Guide

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    Not Your Average Italian Love Story
    The lush Tuscan countryside outside its city walls wraps around Florence like a verdant blanket. | All photos: Tricia Patras

    Not Your Average Italian Love Story

    It’s been said that cities can act as a mirror; we can be stripped back to a skeleton of ourselves through their different cultures, architecture, and history when we first enter. When I decided to move to Florence for the second time in a decade, I had no expectations of how my perspective would alter. I simply knew I needed a change. In an attempt to find my reflection within the city, I found myself everywhere — and in the process, wrote an unexpected love story. 

    I quickly learned that Florence was not just a place; it was a feeling. 

    Eventually, I recognised this feeling after countless walks through the Santa Maria Del Fiore and warm daily ‘ciao’s’ from the restaurant owner down my street. I was home. 

    The Ponte Vecchio awakened me. I had forgotten how its light shimmered across the chaotic waters of the glistening Arno. On certain nights after a rainstorm, the river would light up enough that you could see the reflections of bedroom lights peeking from between the slats of the shutters of Italian homes. 

    I felt lighter from the second I stepped onto the cobblestoned streets each morning. This is a common feeling that American transplants all seem to resonate with. Florence has this magical power of bringing together the reinvented versions of people. I think that’s why we all feel this ‘lightness’. Each day of living in Florence is like shedding your skin, and eventually, you can just focus on what it feels like to fly. 

    As I look at a glass vial of seashells on my shelf, I’m constantly reminded of the people who helped me achieve this lightness. They are my Italian love story. Although it’s not one you would expect I ended up falling in love with a Florentine family. Five years later, they are still my Italian family, and this is the story of how we met. 

    Italian Love Story

    I decided to take a pasta-making class on my third day back in Italy. During this experience, I met a wonderful man named Giacomo. His kindness shone through him like a beam of light. 

    ‘Buongiorno! Who’s ready to be the master of pasta?’ he spoke in chopped English. 

    After four hours of laughing and eating way too much, I felt my heart (and stomach) exploding with joy. I had no idea then that one pasta-making lesson would have the potential to turn into a lifelong attachment.  

    As the day was coming to an end, Giacomo invited me to take on the challenge of making homemade pizza with his family in their Florentine home. 

    Nervous but excited to dive deep into local roots, I found my way out of the city centre to where Giacomo lives. 

    ‘Sono cosi felice che tu sia qui!’ he exclaimed in greeting. I was so happy to be there too. 

    Instantly, his wife, Graziella, made me feel at home. Their 9-year-old son Giulio came running out, enamoured by the shiny new American guest in his house. Able to only speak English words studied through listening to the songs of his favourite singer, Olivia Rodrigo, he mainly used body language to communicate. 

    After telling him to set the table, Graziella turned to us and said, ‘To the kitchen — I hope you like Aperol Spritz, we made a whole bucket!’ Giacomo interrupted with excitement, ‘Now get ready. We have five pizza doughs ready to bake. Let’s have some fun and pick out the ingredients from my garden! This will be the best pizza party you’ve ever had.’

    And oh, it was. 

    We proceeded to make pizzas with Giacomo’s favourite secret ingredient: love, he says. I don’t know if it was the bucket of aperitivo cocktails, the never-ending Chianti or the company, but you could definitely taste it.

    After five hours of laughing and eating, we were now a family of strangers. Although there was a heavy language barrier, we all found ways to understand each other perfectly. By the night’s end, I knew all their stories, and they knew mine. 

    This family was just so… whole. They treated strangers like relatives and saw kindness in everyone. 

    I had never experienced anything like it. It almost frightened me how much I felt at home with people I had only just met. The idea that I could share this type of instant love with a family other than my own back in Chicago reminded me I could create my own someday. It was more tangible than I’d ever thought. 

    We were full of delicious pizza, love, graciousness, and the humble connection between strangers. 

    Giulio stole my heart for the night. His naïve enthusiasm reminded me of what mine was like as a kid. After Google-translating all night to converse with him, we realised we were becoming good friends. We shared our favourite places, one being the magical waters of Cinque Terre.

    When it came time to leave, Giulio tugged at my dress and pointed to his room. Curious about what he would show me, he brought out a vial of seashells. 

    With her warm smile, Graziella relayed the message of these seashells to me. 

    ‘He gathered those over the summer when we took our first trip to Cinque Terre,’ she said. ‘He wants you to always have a little piece of Italy with you,’ Graziella continued. 

    ‘He wants you never to forget him… never to forget this night.’

    Holding back tears, I told Graziella, ‘Please tell him this is the best gift I’ve ever received. This night will always be in my heart, and so will you.’

    Five years later, this moment is still lodged deeply in my heart. I’ve now seen Giulio grow into an ambitious teenager while admiring how Graziella and Giacomo’s romantic love defies the test of time. 

    I had known these people for one night, yet it felt like a lifetime. That is the Florentine way. 

    To me, they are a perfectly imperfect family. Their love writes the words in the story of their lives. And I’m just happy to be a chapter in it. 

    I can’t help but wonder — maybe this was the requited love I was searching for?

    Today, I feel so effortlessly lucky to be understood and welcomed by people who have only known me for snippets of time within the past five years. The Marranni family helped me remember how we are all just strangers, living in the same world, capable of loving one another in the simplest ways. 

    I didn’t know pizza and a bucket of Aperol Spritz could lead to all of that, but I’m so happy it did. 

    Tricia Patras

    Storyteller

    Tricia Patras is a writer from Chicago. She is a published poet, author of A Chain of Thoughts (Substack) and @achainofthoughts (Instagram). She has lived across the globe from London to Florence and is a seasoned solo traveller. She has a set of poems published in Open Doors Review, a literary magazine based in Florence, Italy; her short story, Morning Spaghetti, was published in Maudlin House. She was interviewed for Medium magazine based on her poetry Instagram account with +6,500 followers. She is currently in the publishing stages of her debut novel, Just An Average Girl.

    Time to Read:  5 Minutes
    Storyteller: Tricia Patras
    10 May 2024
    Category:
    Local Stories - Meet the People

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    Beach Bliss, Swahili Culture, and Elephant Encounters in Utange, Mombasa, Kenya
    Head to the area’s wildlife reserves for a chance to spot rare or endangered species. | Photo: Larry Li

    Beach Bliss, Swahili Culture, and Elephant Encounters in Utange, Mombasa, Kenya

    The northeastern corner of Mombasa County in Kenya is the place for dreamy tropical breezes and wonderful wildlife. Welcome to the vibrant destination of Utange in Mombasa where responsible travel meets authentic experiences. Interact with the hospitable local community by exploring stunning beaches, encountering endangered species in nature reserves and discovering a rich cultural heritage. Wherever you roam, Utange will make a lasting impression.

    ~ This guide is a collaboration between local expert Bosco John Juma and frequent visitor Susan Onyango ~

    Kenya

    Upon Arrival

    After a visitor arrives in my city, I always recommend going straight to Nyali Beach with its white sands and turquoise waters — it’s the perfect place to unwind and introduce yourself to the beauty of the Kenya coastline.

    The best time to visit the beach is during the early morning or late afternoon, when you can witness the local fishermen heading out to sea or returning with their catch, demonstrating the community’s reliance on the ocean for their livelihoods.

    The best museum to start your journey and get a good sense of this city is Fort Jesus in Old Town Mombasa. This historic Portuguese fort dating back to the 16th century showcases the region’s diverse history, architecture, and cultural influences, while also serving as a reminder of the resilience and spirit of the people of Utange.

    Parents should take their kids to Haller Park, a nature reserve located nearby where kids can observe a wide range of animals in a safe and educational environment. Discoveries here include the crocodile farm, reptile park with its snake species, serene palm garden and the game sanctuary. It’s a great opportunity for children to develop an appreciation for nature in Kenya and witness conservation efforts in action.

    Food from the Heart

    Among the delicacies my city is most proud of, rice-based dishes like biryani or pilau are an absolute must. To really enjoy them, I like to go to Jiraniz Kitchen.

    When we get together to celebrate, madafu — made with the refreshing water from young, green coconuts — is what people here traditionally drink. I like to gather my friends and go to Masai Bar and Restaurant for a round.

    When I eat completely local, I will go to the Mwembe Tayari street food stalls for the samosas, chapati, and nyama choma (grilled meat). I know the food here is strictly authentic Swahili cuisine.

    Another two classic, iconic restaurants include Tamarind Restaurant, famous for its seafood and breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean; specialities such as grilled prawns and Swahili fish curry have earned them their well-deserved reputation. I also recommend Yul’s Restaurant with its fusion of African and European flavours and dishes like grilled tilapia and sukuma wiki (collard greens with ugali, made from maize flour). 

    The part of town where locals come for traditional food is Old Town Mombasa. It is a vibrant and historic neighbourhood known for its Swahili architecture and narrow winding streets. Here, you’ll find local eateries and street food vendors serving traditional Swahili fare and Kenyan treats like biryani (rice with meat or vegetables and spices), mandazi (fried bread) and vitumbua (fluffy coconut rice pancakes).

    Kenya

    Shopping Locally

    My city is known for making beautiful handcrafted jewellery and accessories.

    I tell first-time travellers to explore the local markets in Mombasa to support the local economy and enjoy an authentic experience. I also tell them to avoid buying products made from endangered species, such as ivory or coral, as they support the illegal trade and harm the local environment.

    The best food market in Utange is Kongowea Market. And the best market to buy everyday items like traditional African art, clothing and handicrafts is Maasai Market at Naivas Nyali.

    For real, local souvenirs I always take visitors to Bombolulu Workshops and Cultural Centre. It’s a social enterprise that empowers people with disabilities by providing them with training in various crafts. The products are of high quality and the vibe is truly inspiring.

    And we know to skip shops selling mass-produced souvenirs because they often lack the authenticity and positive community impact that an enterprise like Bombolulu offers.

    Getting Deeper Into Utange

    A great book to learn more about my city is  African Nights: True Stories from the Author’s Adventures in Africa by the Italian-born Kenyan national Kuki Gallmann, a best-selling author, poet, environmental activist and conservationist. She writes lyrical tales of our amazing wilderness, rare animals, and extraordinary people.

    Most people know about Nyali Beach, but the Butterfly Pavilion, home to a wide variety of butterfly species should also be visited. Its educational tours showcase the importance of preserving biodiversity and creating a harmonious environment for all creatures, great and small.

    My city is a place people are attracted to because of its vibrant cultural festivals and events. Throughout the year, Utange hosts celebrations like the Mombasa Carnival, Lamu Cultural Festival and Eid al-Fitr festivities. To really celebrate my city at its best, come during the Swahili Cultural Festival. It’s a vibrant showcase of local culture, with traditional music, dance performances, art exhibitions, and delicious cuisine.

    Most people think of my city as a place to relax on the beautiful beaches, but really this is a destination to engage with friendly locals, explore the historic sites of Old Town Mombasa, visit museums like Fort Jesus and indulge in a feast of traditional flavours.

    This is one of the best places in the world to experience rich Swahili culture, a blend of African, Arab and European influences. Locals are proud of that because it reflects their deep-rooted traditions, music, dance and culinary heritage.

    Getting Around Utange

    One thing you should know about getting around my city is that tuk-tuks are a popular and convenient mode of transportation.

    The best way to travel in my city to have as little impact as possible is by renting a bicycle since it’s a relatively small town with bike-friendly roads and scenic routes.

    Luckily this method of transportation also allows me to explore the nearby attractions at a leisurely pace.

    Outside The City

    To get away and into the outdoors, I like to tour the nature reserves and parks surrounding Utange like the Shimba Hills National Reserve which offers nature trails, game drives and a chance to spot rare or endangered species like Sable antelopes and elephants. 

    For a day trip just beyond my city, I like to visit Haller Park. This unique ecological park is located in Bamburi, a short distance from Utange. It’s a world-famous ecological and ecotourism showcase created from a former quarry wasteland, now rehabilitated into a rich diverse tropical ecosystem. Visitors can take a guided tour, walk along the nature trails, and even feed the giraffes. 

    Many people will head to Nyali Beach, but locals know to go to peaceful Tiwi Beach for its more serene and less crowded stunning white sands, crystal-clear surf and swaying palm trees.

    I really enjoy the view of my city from Fort Jesus where I experience panoramic views of Mombasa and its surroundings.

    Connecting with Locals

    When I want to have fun and celebrate being out in my city, I join in the vibrant street festivals and cultural events. Utange takes great pride in its community celebrations, from lively parades to colourful costumes and delicious street food. These festivals create a joyful atmosphere that brings the community together and allows visitors to be immersed in the true spirit of Utange.

    To hang out with my friends and go to a real insider spot, I go to Yul’s Beach Bar where I can connect with the locals and enjoy the easy and breezy beach lifestyle.

    The best resource for finding out what’s going on around town is the Utange Community Centre. The centre serves as a hub for local activities, workshops and social events. They provide information on upcoming cultural events, music performances, art exhibitions, and community gatherings. 

    When I want to enjoy my city without spending much (or any) money, I head to Uhuru Garden.  It’s a perfect spot to relax, have a family outing or simply enjoy the tranquillity of nature… and it’s free!

    Tamarind Dhow is my first choice for music. This pair of traditional dhows now refurbished as floating restaurants offers a unique and enchanting experience. And when I feel like dancing, I go to  Club Hypnotica for the vibrant nightlife and high-energy dance floor.

    Finding Solitude in Utange

    When I want to go somewhere to sit and relax in my incredible city, I go to local favourite Shanzu Beach. It’s the perfect place to find inner peace, connect with nature and recharge your mind and body. Or if you’re feeling adventurous, you can windsurf, go snorkelling or fishing.

    The place that makes me proudest of my city is Bombolulu Workshops and Cultural Centre with its unwavering commitment to empowering individuals with disabilities and preserving traditional Kenyan craftsmanship.

    When the Seasons Change, This City Shines

    March to May is the best time to explore outdoors and visit locations like nature reserves where you encounter wildlife up close.

    I always recommend visitors indulge in water sports and beach activities from June to August in Utange as it’s the perfect time to engage in activities such as snorkelling, diving and jet skiing in Kenya. 

    September, October and November here are magical when you witness the annual migration of humpback whales along the coast of Kenya. The Indian Ocean becomes a playground for these gentle giants and it’s awe-inspiring to observe them breaching and splashing in the water.

    December to February is a great time to explore the cultural heritage of Utange. I recommend visitors immerse themselves in the rich history of the city by visiting Fort Jesus.

    Susan Onyango

    Local Expert

    Susan Onyango is a young African woman hailing from Kenya. A travel enthusiast and a responsible tourism ambassador passionate about tourism in East Africa, Susan has an academic background in Mass Communication with a major in Public Relations. For over a year now, she has been working in the tourism industry in Kenya. Her most recent professional engagements have been with Ecotourism Kenya, Tierranjani Africa and Kenya Utalii College


    Bosco John Juma

    Local Expert

    Bosco John Juma is a conservationist, social entrepreneur and the Executive Director of Big Ship Organization. He has over 10 years of hands-on experience promoting the conservation of marine, forest, and allied natural resources. Bosco continues to share information on marine conservation efforts through his social media accounts via Linkedin, Twitter and Facebook.

    Time to Read:  8 Minutes
    Local Expert(s): Susan Onyango and Bosco John Juma
    3 May 2024
    Category:
    Destination Guide

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