Resonate: From an Idea to Reaching 100 Stories
Working with local communities, it dawned on us: we needed to create a dedicated storytelling platform | Photo: Simon Wilkes

Resonate: From an Idea to Reaching 100 Stories

We’re changing the face of travel storytelling by giving local voices their own platform. When we let stories come from within writers’ communities, Resonate encourages new talent and gives back to destinations. In empowering local people and creating a space for readers, we provide travellers with authentic inspiration — so they can explore our world with consideration and an open mind.

Now, to celebrate publication of our 100th story, Resonate’s co-creators — Linda Veråsdal and Raj Gyawali — tell us about where it all began, how it’s going, and where we’re headed next…

What led to starting Resonate… was there a ‘eureka moment’ when inspiration struck?

Linda: As a part of our responsible tourism company Ethical Travel Portal (ETP), we would always work in local communities and enable people living there to tell their own stories. So it would come directly from within the culture, heritage and natural environment they inhabit… regardless of where they’re located.

We realised this would be better achieved by creating a dedicated platform for the purpose, and not only sharing those stories through ETP’s blog as we had been doing. That new, dedicated platform — Resonate — needed to be driven by the stories locals want to tell, and come from the places they are inviting travellers to visit… on their terms.

Raj: For my part, I didn’t really have just one eureka moment. Only multiple challenges that came together at a certain moment in time, to spark the idea of a solution.

The first big challenge has always been to mainstream sustainability in travel; the more I thought about it, the more it made sense to engage with the traveller rather than with the industry. And while sustainability as a concept is gaining traction, travellers do not always know what that means in terms of putting it into practice.

Also, while destinations have wonderful sustainable options created by locals, they seldom get exposure, especially to the travellers who need to know about them most. The word wasn’t getting out there. Though storytelling is heralded as a means to change behaviour, locals aren’t always the experts at doing that in a format that travellers take on board… and international writers (or the publications where their work is found) are not necessarily aware of the local gems.

Put it all together in one basket and a solution presents itself via a well-done storytelling platform where locals get their stories out, aimed at travellers who would be inspired based on these stories. This is a sustainable way to promote destinations, and also to enjoy them.

Linda: This is all done with the goals of bringing about change in traveller behaviour and increasing community resilience. On the Resonate platform, destinations can tell their own stories with confidence and pride. This way, we’ve changed the focus to what locals want to tell readers and promote about their place, their heritage and their culture.

So the idea was always to push beyond the typical ‘travel website’ box and change the game. For you, what makes Resonate so special?

Raj: It’s extraordinary in that it’s aimed at building resilient destinations that know how best to craft their own narrative, which in turn inspires travellers to journey responsibly.

It empowers destinations to market what they really want to; creating an opportunity to present themselves in their own way. It also provides locals a chance to influence how people approach travel to their destinations, by providing authentic travel inspiration. Most of all, it also fosters a feeling of pride, which is very sustainable.

Linda: Being a community of local writers and storytellers, it’s a welcoming space for them to tell their stories in their own words. That’s what makes it very special; its role as one of the first platforms in the world where the locals truly take centre stage and are paid for writing their stories.

Many hands make light work; it takes a team -- and writers around the world -- working together to tell stories.
Many hands make light work: a lot of expertise was needed to bring it all together and push it forward | Photo: Shane Rounce

When you talk about ‘authentic travel inspiration’, what does that mean?

Raj: When I travel to a destination, I always love to connect and understand how the locals themselves connect to the place they live in. When I get a chance to read about it, or see it online, or watch a video of that engagement, that gives me very authentic travel inspiration and a chance to engage with the location the way the locals do — eat the same food, participate in the same experiences, and enjoy it in the same way. This understanding and experience are key in travel.

Linda: In a nutshell, it’s about connecting with places and people. To get the sense of a place you may have known little about, understand its depth and everyday life. Where to find these places these days? Hmm, probably in inspirational articles written by the locals themselves…

From an idea to marking the 100 stories milestone, how do you both feel about Resonate so far?

Raj: When we kickstarted Resonate.travel about a year and a half ago, I never thought we could get this much traction. I thought finding the stories from different locations would be far harder. But when I see the queue of stories that are awaiting publication, it tells us something very clearly… these stories need to be told, and there are so many around the world that need an audience to hear them. This is very, very encouraging.

What all these ideas eventually needed was expertise in publication and editing. We were not interested in a slapdash platform, even if done with good intentions, but wanted a professionally done ‘magazine’. This is where we had the expertise of Alex Crevar, who ideated and co-created the platform alongside us; JoAnna Haugen, who strategised and developed the mechanisms of how that could be taken into action; and Emily Cathcart, who is now pushing it forward as Chief Editor. This professional approach has been instrumental in bringing it to where it is now, together with website developer Shailesh Man Joshi and marketer Subhasini Shrestha. 

On the engaging travellers front, we are a bit slow and have no clear means of measuring the engagement, but this is something we need to be working on, and we will.

Linda: Even if our progress is gradual, we are happy to see that an organic approach is working steadily. However, eventually, we might find Resonate is funded by the readers who see value in the stories, and by the destinations who believe in growing their resilience based on influencing travellers to visit sustainably.

What’s next? Where does the Resonate journey lead from here…

Linda: I’m looking forward to reaching our next milestone, of 200 local stories — let’s keep them coming. There are so many more places in the world that we need to include. It’s early days, and this is just the very beginning!

Raj: And I’m excited about continuing our work towards the aim of a vibrant community — coming together via this platform — connecting storytellers across the globe, and responsible travellers keen to visit the destinations they’ve read about. This is what we’re building to take us into the future.

Linda Veråsdal

Resonate Team

Linda Veråsdal is one of the driving forces behind Resonate, and is the Founder of Ethical Travel Portal. Splitting the year, she spends half her time in Norway and the other half in The Gambia. Linda is passionate about responsible tourism and using tourism as a tool for positive development. With a Master's in Responsible Tourism, she has years of experience in the field, from owning a company to developing experiences to leading trips. Putting principles into practice, Linda has shown how tailor-made responsible travel packages can have a transformative, positive impact on communities, especially in remote areas of The Gambia where she and her team have been actively promoting sustainable tourism for several years.


Raj Gyawali

Resonate Team

Based in Nepal, Raj Gyawali is one of the driving forces behind Resonate and Ethical Travel Portal. He has over two decades of specialist knowledge of responsible tourism in practice and ground-level experience building, developing his company socialtours as the first in Asia to be sustainability certified. Working in Ghana, China, Myanmar, Nepal, Bangladesh and India, he's kept a finger on the pulse of developments around the world of tourism. Raj consults on responsible tourism for organisations, especially on destination development. Through consultation, he helps governments and communities create more sustainable practices. He is the expert Dreamweaver for Asia and adventure-related experiences, drawing from his passion for soft adventure. Raj loves most to be in the mountains, leading a multi-day hike or on a bike trip, or researching new experiences!

Time to Read:  6 Minutes
Resonate Team(s): Linda Veråsdal and Raj Gyawali
27 June 2024
Category:
Responsibility in Focus

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Our Editorial Journey: Helping Tell 100 Stories
Every pin in our Resonate map has a person and a culture behind it | Photo: Z, Unsplash

Our Editorial Journey: Helping Tell 100 Stories

Upon reaching the milestone of 100 stories, Resonate editor Emily Cathcart has been looking back at the many memorable pieces our storytelling platform has published. She’s also reminiscing about the equally memorable people we’ve met along the way. It’s been both a global exploration and a daily learning experience.

With many more discoveries yet to come, Emily traces our editorial journey so far…

When I joined Resonate, I knew that I’d be working with a lot of writers in a lot of destinations (though I may not have realised quite how thoroughly we’d cover the map). We may speak multiple native languages, live in loads of different time zones, represent a variety of cultures and employ a literal world of difference in our approaches — but we always find common ground.

Yes, we’re a wide-ranging bunch, but we’re all born yarn-spinners. We like to tell a story, and we especially enjoy shouting from the rooftops when there’s a subject we’re particularly excited about. Though I’m thousands of miles away from most of our writers, communicating via email, I can almost see the twinkle in their eyes or hear the depth of conviction in their voices as they describe what matters to them.

It could be a cause, an amazing individual making a difference, or something we’d simply never have known existed without a local showing us the way. As a complement to our stories, our contributors’ insider knowledge also comes across in incredibly detailed destination guides only a true local could author. Each takes you on an authentic voyage of discovery. And they go far above and beyond any top 10 list!

In searching for stories, I’ve been honoured to collaborate with such talented, thoughtful people. From the writers who tackled burning issues such as synthetic prayer flags on Everest and highlighted game changers like the artisans in Nigeria preserving pottery traditions, to those telling us of a magical visit to a lighthouse island in Norway or taking us along on a peaceful morning run in their local park in the USA.

We take on so many topics, from the serious to the whimsical, and capture moments from what’s happening right now to cherished memories. But at the same time, we make sure that we remember our core values and keep responsibility in focus.

Stories
So many stories… where content is tracked from pitch to publication | Photo illustration: Emily Cathcart

No matter what the story is about, what’s important to me is to let the writer tell it. Though I’m a writer too, I’m not here to say things my way. Instead, knowing they’re not my stories to tell, and appreciating what each writer brings, I let them stretch and breathe. Whether that’s giving them space to practise the craft they’ve already honed as experienced professionals, or offering encouragement as they embark on a creative journey as a new writer.

At the end of the day, my job is to facilitate, brief, guide, inspire, provide information, be available to help… but mostly stay out of the way. As we add more and more new destinations to our platform’s map, each pin represents an individual with their own culture and experiences and their own voice. Our aim is to let these voices shine through as if they’re in the room with us.

Above all, we respect contributors, appreciate them and celebrate what makes them special. In my role here as chief editor, I’m exceptionally lucky to ‘travel’ through the stories I edit, seeing all of these sights through the eyes of our passionate activists, dedicated local experts and keen raconteurs.

Before I joined the Resonate team, I already understood that wonderful things can happen when we open our minds to other perspectives. But the more time I spend helping writers find their voices and develop narratives, the more I grow; and with every one of the articles I assign, I discover something unexpected about the places people call home.

With some brilliant stories from new and different lands already lined up for publication, we look forward to putting even more pins in our Resonate map. In doing so, we also add more new faces to our community of storytellers. And I can’t wait to see who we’ll meet and where we’ll go next on our global editorial journey.

Emily Cathcart

Resonate Team

From her base in Ireland, Emily Cathcart was delighted to join Resonate as a Content Manager and has been revelling in the opportunity to collaborate with writers worldwide ever since. Emily enjoys encouraging authors through the creation process and also helping non-writers to tell their tales — all with Resonate’s ethical principles in mind. When she isn’t busy commissioning or editing, she can be found, camera in hand, seeking out-of-the-way discoveries for her own site that’s literally All About Dublin. And when Emily’s not working on any/all of the above, she’s writing articles and photo essays as a freelance journalist for publications from boutique magazines to national newspapers.

Time to Read:  3 Minutes
Resonate Team: Emily Cathcart
25 June 2024
Category:
From the Editor

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Chai Culture: More Than Just a Hole in a Wall
As long as the old ways are preserved, authentic chai can never die | All photos: Saurabh Joshi

Chai Culture: More Than Just a Hole in a Wall

It’s May, and the temperature in Jaipur has crept up by four degrees Celsius in just the last two weeks. People only leave their homes for important business, though kids still play cricket in the walled city’s narrow alleys. Due to the absence of air conditioners in the old shops, some owners have found refuge under an ancient banyan tree’s canopy. I am also sheltering beneath it on an aged iron stool, waiting for the best masala chai in the city. 

Chai at this shop is served in a tall glass; it’s piping hot, milky, sweet, and has precisely the right mixture of spices. The freshness of ground green cardamom is so nourishing that with the first sip, I instantly feel energised.

The hammering of mortar and pestle gets my attention and I find myself gazing at a giant pot charred around the edges from years of use. Suresh, the senior employee here, follows the same careful process for every batch of chai. His lips are pressed together in concentration and furrows between his eyebrows become more noticeable as he adds the exact amount of tea, cardamom, milk, and sugar — the typical mixture for ‘everyday’ chai. The artistic way he stirs the tea as it brews makes him look like a magician searching for a secret sign while preparing a potion or looking into the future. 

chai

I have been visiting this place since I was in high school. Watching Suresh prepare chai was both the easiest and the most affordable entertainment. And the historical architecture of old Jaipur creates a perfect backdrop for his stage. 

Jaipur is known for its uniformity in building style, immaculate township planning, and hospitality. The distinctive Pink City — once painted a rosy hue with a colour extracted from flower petals — is now battling against the garish neon signs trying to cling onto its archways. Jaipur is getting modernised rapidly and with each new fast-food centre, modern café, or chain restaurant barging its way in, an old tea shop or local restaurant is pushed out. 

I am not against the change; change brings novelty. But I am concerned about the rapidity of this huge influx of the new. I am worried that the city may lose its originality. It needs the right balance, one that can only be struck by a sustainable approach to development.

That’s why sitting under this elderly banyan tree while sipping on my masala chai feels like a portal to times past; these little tea shops are the soul of old Jaipur. Drinking chai here is more than having a mere tea. I meet my friends here; we discuss cricket and politics. It’s a platform for social networking which does not require any internet connection or paid subscription. And sometimes, I sit contentedly on my own and just watch the world go by.

In the early 20th century, despite persistent campaigns by the determined transplanted Englishman to popularise tea as a local drink, it was not in high demand in India. English tea wasn’t blended for the Indian tastebuds and it never represented the local palate.

The country practically reinvented tea by adding spices to it. Of course, the English never dreamt that Indians would add the milk and sugar alongside the water, boiling all of it together cheerfully into a thick, aromatic cup. And so it came to pass that India accepted tea, but not before adding its own ‘balance’ to it.

Back in the present, in these desperate times, my favourite ‘hole in a wall’ chai shop is the brightest beacon of hope. Suresh prepares more than 1000 tall glasses every day. ‘It is a family business,’ Ashok, who hands the cups of chai to people, proudly announces. ‘Three generations have been successfully pouring their passion and high spirits into every single cup of chai we serve here.’

I could not agree with Ashok more; their honest approach to what they do is one of the main reasons I visit frequently. In the mayhem of modernisation, they are holding their nerve and keeping their belief in the city alive. Their authentic chai, love for their culture, and sincerity have kept the business running while many others of their era have closed. 

On a visit to India, even French President Emmanuel Macron could not resist chai prepared by hosts like Suresh. Another testament to the fact that enjoying chai is the most authentic of experiences and probably the best way to connect with the city and its people.

Suresh, Ashok, and the magical chai pot they tend are important reminders as Jaipur continues to develop. They won’t let chai die, and they will save our heritage and tradition as well. With each sip I take, the rush of new Jaipur slows down around me. The spell is only broken by an auto-rickshaw driver who wants to park under the tree where I am parked too, literally waking me up to rude reality.  

The spices have pooled in the bottom of the cup and Ashok politely asks me to vacate my space for the next customer, making me realise that I have almost finished my chai. Before I go and get lost in the street’s hotchpotch again, I take the last gulp and hand the empty glass back to Ashok. No words are spoken but I know, and he knows — and even Suresh knows — that I will be back here tomorrow and the day after. 

Saurabh Joshi

Storyteller

Saurabh Joshi is a travel expert who curates sustainable itineraries focusing on India as a destination. Before making New Delhi his base, Saurabh led cultural and food tours across the country for several years, work which dovetailed perfectly with his passion for storytelling (and chai!). Saurabh also shares a keen interest in cricket and is actively involved with the Sunder Kanti Joshi Award, an initiative taken by his family to encourage and promote women's sports in Rajasthan.

Time to Read:  4 Minutes
Storyteller: Saurabh Joshi
21 June 2024
Category:
Local Stories - Food and Drink

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Recapturing the Childhood Magic of Sark
Sunset over Havre Gosselin | Photo: Kate Harrison

Recapturing the Childhood Magic of Sark

Have you ever been homesick for a place you’ve never technically lived? For me, that place is Sark. A tiny, rocky plateau floating in the English Channel, stepping foot on its shores is like stepping back in time.

There are no cars on Sark — no motorised vehicles at all except for the multifunctional tractors that pull the agriculture industry, the ambulance, and the fire engine. Instead, tourists and the 500ish locals get around by bike, on foot, and via the handful of horse-drawn carriages. Its steep cliffs cascade down (sometimes literally) into crystal clear, azure waters unmarred by pollution, and its stars glow vividly in a pitch-black sky that has never been diluted by the glare from a lamppost.  

Every May between the ages of 5 and 18, Sark was an adventure playground for my sister and me. With a level of freedom unimaginable at home, we were allowed to wander far and explore, free from the mainland dangers of cars and crime. Like the protagonists of an Enid Blyton novel, we passed heady weeks in a haze of rockpools, sea swimming and ice cream. From dawn till dusk we biked around the island, flying at full speed down hilly dirt roads, whooping with exhilaration, both of us determined to be the last to squeeze the brakes. After I went to university, family holidays faded into the background, and over a decade passed before I was to set foot on those beautiful shores again.

Magic of Sark
Cliffs cascade down into crystal clear waters | Photo: Kate Harrison

Sark has a unique history. Though the island has likely been inhabited since the Stone Age, the current iteration of settlement began in 1565, when Jersey nobleman Helier DeCarteret was granted the land by Queen Elizabeth I. DeCarteret became the first ruler — or Seigneur — and divided the island between 40 families, creating tenements which still exist today. Though technically part of the United Kingdom, Sark is a self-governing, fiercely independent island, and was the last feudal state in Europe until democracy arrived in 2008. 

The intervening years had not been easy on Sark, with the community rocked by tumultuous politics and unwanted billionaire interference. The owners of nearby private island Brecqhou had been gradually trying to increase their influence on the community and its government, buying up businesses and even attempting to purchase the island itself from the Seigneur. Pushback from the islanders resulted in reactionary closures of several Brecqhou-owned businesses, abandoned shops and hotels, and substantial job losses. 

I had kept up to date with the news from the island, and so there was a certain amount of trepidation mixed in with the excitement when my parents suggested a family trip for the summer of 2023. There is a danger in revisiting places you used to adore. The eyes of an adult don’t always see through the same rose tints of a child. The magic might be gone, the nostalgia not enough to keep the dream alive. Would the real thing still bring me the same joy and tranquillity as it did in my memories? Or would returning leave me disappointed? 

Magic of Sark
Tree-lined footpaths snake around the island | Photo: Kate Harrison

From the second I jumped off the ferry, the worry dissipated. As always, we bypassed the tractor-pulled trailer (affectionately known as the ‘toast rack’) that carts passengers up the steep harbour hill, setting off up the lush green footpath instead. With every step through the sub-tropical foliage and burgeoning wildflowers, I could feel the mainland melt away, along with all the stresses and pressures of my adult life. By the time we strolled into the courtyard of the cycle hire shop to pick up our rental bikes, I could have been 13 again. I hadn’t ridden a bike in years, but the old saying is true, even if the firm seats are a lot less forgiving on a 33-year-old bum than a teenager’s.  

So many things hadn’t changed. The deep, clear water of the hidden Venus Pool – briefly uncovered twice a day at low tide – was still icy and breathtaking as we leapt into it, shrieking in delight. The sunbaked rocks of Derrible Bay still warmed us as we waited for the tide to uncover its perfect white sand. Huge colonies of noisy seabirds still honked at us while we scrambled around the outcrops of Port du Moulin to do our mandatory exploration of the mysterious old shipwreck tossed up on the rocks over 100 years earlier. Tree branches still twined together as we cycled under them, turning packed-dirt roads into fantastical lush, green tunnels. These old friends who saw my sister and me grow up still welcomed us warmly, even after so many years away.

Preparing for the cold shock of the Venus Pool | Photo: Beth Harrison

Nothing stays the same forever though. Some changes were exciting; the new dairy, with its 24-hour milk vending machine prompted multiple late-night milkshake trips, and several interesting new shops had sprung up on the Avenue — the one shopping street and the island’s ‘capital’. However, ghosts of restaurants and abandoned souvenir shops once magnets for my pocket money studded the street too. An element of bittersweetness and a reminder of the island’s recent history, though recent investments by the Seigneur promise to rejuvenate the parts of the island affected by the Brecqhou legacy. 

I made sure to buy as many locally-made items as possible, filling my suitcase with handmade silver jewellery, local art and most importantly, the delicious artisan chocolate made from the rich milk of the island cows, justifying my splurging as my small contribution to the local economy. 

Our final day arrived too soon, and as we sat on the harbour wall waiting for the ferry, I had time to contemplate this beautiful island. Had this experience lived up to my childhood memories, or had the dream slipped away somewhere in the last decade? As the boat arrived, disgorging its cargo of day trippers and locals’ supplies, I knew without a doubt that I would be back again. 

Even after all this time, my heart still belongs to Sark.

Kate Harrison

Traveller

Kate Harrison is a writer living in North Wales, in the United Kingdom. Though a Science Writer for Technology Networks by day, her true passions are rock climbing and travel, which she writes about on her blog. She feels most at home in the outdoors and in her free time, can usually be found halfway up a cliff face. 

Time to Read:  5 Minutes
Traveller: Kate Harrison
14 June 2024
Category:
Travellers' Tales - In this Moment

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Lunch at the Presidential Palace
The throne hall, with its ceiling fresco depicting Babylonian scenes | Photo: Rob Kehoe

Lunch at the Presidential Palace

I hear someone calling me: ‘Hurry, come and look at this ceiling and the throne area — and then go outside and check out the pool!’ I’m aware that we need to leave soon, but I pause momentarily and look up at a brightly coloured square of azure, gold, and sepia overhead. As I gaze at the fresco’s scenes of Babylon such as the vivid blue Ishtar Gate, I marvel to myself… am I actually touring this former presidential palace?

Noting some of the others from my group still taking pictures, I realise that yes, indeed — I do have time to look at the empty swimming pool and inspect the deserted alcove-like spot where a dictator would have sat on his throne waiting for visitors. After all, when will I see this again?

A fellow visitor shows me how to place my phone on the ground in the perfect position to take a shot of the fresco. The resulting image captures one of the many unforgettable moments on a tour of Iraq organised by our guide, world traveller Doug.

It began after my group walked around the ancient city of Babylon. I had goosebumps during my exploration while repeatedly saying ‘unbelievable’ and ‘incredible,’ trying to find better adjectives to describe my indescribable experience while looking at the sculpted volcanic stone Lion of Babylon. I didn’t know if my day could get more memorable, but it did.

After our morning spent visiting the distant past, my group met Abu Zainab, who works for the ancient site administration in Babylon. This naturally funny and highly energised man wearing a red-and-black plaid top, blue jacket and jeans greeted us by asking the women in my group to take off our sunglasses so he could determine who would be the queen and her assistants for the day.

The four of us laughed because our guides had told us that Zainab does this with every group. But it is almost as if he’s been rehearsing this short skit, and is acting it out for the first time while trying to be semi-serious about fulfilling the responsibility of choosing the royal court.

Lunch at Saddam Hussein’s Palace
In one of the empty, graffitied palace rooms, intact floors are relics of a regime long gone | Photo: Erin Coyle

After entering the palace, I looked up and down, unsure what to expect from the former home of a repressive leader with a complex legacy. Some outside entrances above the door are carved with palm trees and flowers, while others have stone portraits of the despot who built this grandiose palace, or are adorned by animals like the eagle and horse.

Not wanting to lose the group, I peeked into a few old rooms, noticing the remains of graffiti-covered walls and faded tiled floors, with the only light coming from the windows.

A few minutes later, Zainab gave me a key to unlock a warped, graffitied wooden door. This would lead us up two flights of stairs to the top, where we would have a home-cooked lunch.

While waiting for lunch, Zainab showed us around the palace, ensuring we took in various areas like former bathrooms or bedchambers. One bathroom had two marble columns standing, across from the remnants of what appeared to be a hot tub. White marble walls with faded red-and-grey geometric borders would probably have been quite colourful in their prime.

Lunch at Saddam Hussein’s Palace
The remains of a bathroom provide a glimpse into the palace’s appointments | Photo: Erin Coyle

I’ve visited other palaces, but maybe because nothing was left inside these rooms — or because it had been built by an infamous figure and was linked to a difficult time in this country’s history — it felt surreal to wander this place.

But back in the present, Zainab’s bubbly personality was contagious. I kept chuckling because his conversations would intertwine his respect for his teachers, followed by his interest in showing tourists around the building, and then swiftly on to a different topic. He was always upbeat, ensuring that the group was making the most of the experience.

Another bonus was our homecooked lunch made by the wife of our driver, Habib — everyone calls her Um Hussein. She had happily prepared the food for our group of 12 and brought her three kids and father to join us in partaking.

We sat on wicker mats on the ground for a feed of kebabs, chicken, rice, noodles, salad and flatbreads. The barbequed, smoky flavours hit the spot. Um told us how she enjoys cooking for groups, and it’s clear that her kids like meeting visitors from out of town. She insisted everyone have seconds and was not shy about placing at least two more spoonfuls of rice and chicken on our plates — and it’s impossible to turn down extra food when the host insists.

Enjoying our informal banquet area on the palace’s top floor. | Photo: Doug Barnard Travel

It was a perfectly normal feast until I remembered I was on the top floor of a former palace, looking at graffiti-daubed walls and a domed ceiling decorated with various motifs. I was grateful for this special and unique lunch.

Afterwards, Zainab took a few of us down the stairs, quickly ushering us to see the fresco on the first floor, the throne hall, and the outside stone pool with its horseshoe shape. While walking out of one room, I glanced towards the end of the hallway. Only a little spotlight from the window shone down, giving the scene a dramatic feeling of emptiness and ruin.

I do not think Zainab wanted us to leave, because he started sharing more details about Babylon before our last group picture outside. We smiled, and even though he knew we had already visited the ancient city only that morning, maybe he wanted to ensure our guide had told us everything we needed to hear. He is a passionate man with a flair for storytelling.

I will remember this day. Only a few people can say they had lunch at a tyrant’s palace. Abu Zainab added to it with his good humour and ability to talk about anything and everything. I also appreciated Um’s hospitality and generosity in preparing a lovely meal. In sifting through the remnants of a place that hadn’t always been a setting for warm human connections like the ones made that afternoon, most of all I was grateful for the once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Erin Coyle

Traveller

Erin Coyle is a freelance writer and ESL teacher based in Oman. Her work has been published in the Oman Observer, Go World Travel, Wander with Wonder, Confetti Travel Cafe, Rovology, Foodie Flashpacker, among others. She also lived in China for five years, teaching ESL. Erin's travels have taken her to Southeast Asia, Oceania, Europe, the Middle East, East and South Africa. She is always planning her next trip.

Time to Read:  5 Minutes
Traveller: Erin Coyle
7 June 2024
Category:
Travellers' Tales - In this Moment

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