Resonate - 12 October 2023

At blue hour, Belfast Harbour shines. | This photo by George; all others by Graeme Hanna.

Seeing Belfast Through a Local Lens

Belfast, Northern Ireland, is a city of contrasts and contradictions. A place of contested identity, its past and present tell the story of different traditions and political aspirations among its people for the future.

The conflict known as ‘The Troubles’ has thankfully been consigned to the past and replaced with a relative peace that endures, despite a seemingly never-ending political stalemate. The recent 25th anniversary of the Belfast Agreement reflected a new generation who have lived in a very different place than their parents and grandparents.

Some scars are still visible, but this place has plenty to enjoy and embrace.

To its advantage, Belfast is a very compact city. You are never too far away from anywhere else, which applies to all of Northern Ireland as well as the capital of the Irish Republic (Ireland), Dublin, with that metropolis and its airport, the biggest on the island of Ireland, only around 90 minutes away by bus.

Also in its favour; you don’t have to break the bank to enjoy my friendly city. Belfast needn’t be expensive, especially if you are here for a quick visit. The best way to get a feel for its geography, character and most importantly, its people is to get up close. Speak to a local and you will almost certainly find easy conversation. This could be for mere directions; to receive a recommendation for the best place to grab dinner; or to share an opinion on a point of interest.

Belfast is very walkable unless your visit coincides with particularly inclement weather; but even then, for just £4.20, you can avail of a day ticket for unlimited use on the Metro bus service with this form of public transport very noticeable in its pink livery. The same-day ticket can also be used on the Glider, a regular rapid transport bus connecting the east and west of the city.

But I like to take visitors for an adventure on foot. I show off this city of mine, making sure we look around — and up — to take in this distinctive place which is simultaneously British, Irish and many things in between.

We pause before the showpiece of the Northern Irish capital, the iconic Belfast City Hall. An elaborate wedding cake of an edifice, this majestic civic building and home of the city council was completed in 1906, with its bold baroque style designed by Sir Alfred Brumwell Thomas. The city hall is a popular meeting place, protest location, and host of various celebrations and civic events throughout the year.

And even if you have no other agenda, it’s a great spot for people-watching in the vicinity, and it is also open to the public. Inside you will find a café, tours operate on certain days and best of all, an enjoyable, informative permanent exhibition regales visitors with the story of Belfast from past to present over six self-guided themed zones.

Just across the street on Donegal Square North, we arrive at the Linen Hall Library. One of my favourite attractions to share with guests, this place is stunning and something of a well-kept secret, hidden in plain sight. The library’s history dates back to 1788 and is a treasure trove of literacy, varied stories and discovery, which includes a very reasonably priced café serving good quality food and refreshments.

For visitors keen to experience something more loud and lively, as long as it’s the weekend, I take them to soak up the maze of sights, smells and sounds that is St George’s Market. From Friday to Sunday, it’s a place to eat, drink and be merry with a plethora of traders on hand, ranging from hearty local specialities to various international food vendors. Once our hunger has been satisfied, we move on to browse and buy from a selection of stallholders from produce to crafts and art. A live band is usually in situ, providing an upbeat, welcoming backdrop for this cultural institution.

Later, we take a 15/20 minute walk to take a look at the contested identity of Belfast’s people, typified in the Shankill and Falls districts. These typically working-class areas tell their own narrative, with a glimpse into the past and their respective British/Unionist and Irish/Republican loyalties on display in terms of wall murals, memorials, street displays and tours which are available to book.

Both areas are accessible on foot, adjoining each other and divided by the ‘peace wall’ on Cupar Way that speaks volumes, 25 years after supposed peace. It is a popular stopping point for tourists on taxi and coach tours; but as much as locals will share their own perspective, you can make up your own mind.

When you visit the area yourself, don’t just look but engage. The people will happily speak to you or welcome you into the many cafés or watering holes, where you will find something that isn’t on offer in the city centre.

Belfast is authentic, it is real, it is often gritty but it has character, warmth and a varied story to tell. Though typically wet, our weather does not dampen the warm hearts of locals more than happy to meet and greet tourists who come to this place we call home. The skies above may be grey, but as I show my walking companions in our wanderings, your experience of this place will be anything but dull.

Graeme Hanna

Storyteller

Graeme Hanna is a freelance writer based in Belfast, Northern Ireland who has been writing full-time for the last three years. He specialises in football and Rangers FC, as well as writing on news and trending matters. His work has been published in titles such as Rangers Review, Give Me Sport, Manchester Evening News, MyLondon and the Belfast News Letter.

Time to Read: 4 Minutes

Storyteller: Graeme Hanna

12 October 2023

Category:
Local Stories - In This Moment

Erin under the waterfall. | This photo by William Hussein; all others by Erin Coyle.

The Welcoming Nature of Wadi Tiwi

Taking in the mountains, dates, and palm trees while sitting on the steps, listening and watching the gurgles of water from the waterfall, I smile while thinking how soothing nature is. I’m chatting with one of the locals at Wadi Tiwi in Oman, while he’s waiting for some tourists to finish swimming.

He asks me, ‘Why aren’t you working today?’ I laugh and say, ‘I do not have to teach today.’ Two minutes later, another local arrives with two tourists, and he asks me the same question. He disappears down the stairs to show his group the rope they need to descend five metres into the first turquoise-coloured wadi — a pool of water.

Welcome to Wadi Tiwi, about 25 minutes north of Sur. It is known for its waterfall, and there are a few ways to reach it. Some drive about 15 minutes to the top of Mibam Village and then walk down nearly 300 cement steps with lush date, banana, and mango trees on either side. Others park halfway at Sima Village and walk through farms or on another path, which requires going around boulders on a loose rocky trail with some parts flat and some hiking uphill.

My friends and I usually like to park at the bottom and challenge ourselves with a 14 km return trip by hiking along the road with steep hills and mountains in our background. Or we take shortcuts through farms that contain fruit trees, like papaya and banana, as well as date trees. The only sounds sometimes are chirping, crowing, and croaking, allowing one to relax and forget about everything.

We also take the loose rocky path after Sima to reach Mibam. Pausing and looking down at the boulders, shrubs between rocks, palm and date trees, and glimpses of small pools of water while hearing faint burbles echoing from afar has this hypnotic effect. Nature pulls one in, saying, ‘You’ve got this’, while the waterfall continues, ‘See you in about 45 minutes.’

The locals always smile when passing them, saying ‘Salim Alikum’ (hello). When reaching the halfway mark of Sima Village, there are usually dates and coffee for everyone to enjoy. Roughly 14 white and beige squared homes are here, with some traditional ones built with mud and bricks. Six or seven date trees peek over the white cement wall on the other side of the houses. One will see farms below the wall with flourishing banana and papaya trees.

My friends and I have had Iftar, the first meal after breaking fast during Ramadan in Sima village, and we have had others invite us to rest, have coffee and dates before hiking back to our car. On one of my first visits, some women at Mibam Village asked my friends and me to take a break. They gave us Sewaiya — a sweet vermicelli noodle with hints of sugar and rose water; fruit, dates, and coffee. We felt grateful for this kind gesture.

When I think I have taken all the routes inside Tiwi, I seem to stumble on a new path. Once, my friend and I were walking and came upon a turquoise and sea-blue pool of water. The large palm trees covered the glistening surface, almost as if the leaves were hugging and protecting this boxed-shaped pool.

A local sitting down told us that we could swim here anytime. I did not want to leave this peaceful spot with the music of only chirping and croaking. The trees’ reflection in the water, with slight glimpses of mountains in the background, was incredible. I told myself this would be an excellent spot to meditate and relax.

Wadi Tiwi is undoubtedly a special place. When I need nature, want to exercise, or feel stressed, this is the first place I visit. It is as if the scenery is looking at me and whispering, ‘Welcome back. We know you will feel refreshed after your visit.’ Something is calming about seeing the significant date and palm trees or climbing around the unusually shaped boulders. A bonus is the waterfall, which removes any aches when setting foot inside the turquoise pool. The droplets pounding on one’s shoulders make for an excellent massage.

No matter how often I come here, I am always fascinated when I walk along the filaj, a type of underground system that transports water through canals. While I get my phone out for a photo, I laugh and think, ‘How many pictures do I have of this filaj or other scenes from Tiwi?’ It still does not prevent me from clicking away.

I asked four frequent visitors and one local from Sima Village what makes Tiwi unique.

‘A hike here gave me a better workout than going regularly to gyms. The fresh air and greenery are a bonus.’ Tung Chi

‘Wadi Tiwi contains farms, trees, stunning landscapes, freshwater, and old residential villages.’ Mohammed

‘It is the perfect blend of physical activity, the wonders of nature, and vibrant colours that nourish the body, mind, and soul.’ Kerissa

‘Tiwi has its own magic and amazes me every time I set foot on its trail. I feel detached from reality.’ Khadija

‘It is one of those places that seems like it should not be real. It has this feel as if it were trapped in time.’ Koketso

In addition to Wadi Tiwi’s hospitality, one will find this generosity anywhere. On other hikes, locals have given us food, such as mandazi — a type of triangular-shaped fried bread, and halwa — a sticky, jelly-like sweet mixed with ghee, sugar, cornstarch, and sometimes cardamom. Expect people to welcome you and say, ‘Oman is your home.’ The hospitality is endless.

As for Tiwi, the mystical wonder continues to surprise me, and each visit feels like my first time. The friendly and hospitable locals, the refreshing waterfall, and the scenery make this a remarkable place. As I plan my next visit, I get giddy thinking about what discoveries I will make.

Erin Coyle

Storyteller

Erin Coyle is a freelance writer and ESL teacher based in Oman. Her work has been published in the Oman Observer, Go World Travel, Wander with Wonder, Confetti Travel Cafe, Rovology, Foodie Flashpacker, among others. She also lived in China for five years, teaching ESL. Erin's travels have taken her to Southeast Asia, Oceania, Europe, the Middle East, East and South Africa. She is always planning her next trip.

Time to Read: 5 Minutes

Storyteller: Erin Coyle

10 October 2023

Category:
Local Stories - Nature

“Tower Grove cemented our relationship with this little slice of south St Louis.” | All photos: Erika Ebsworth-Goold

My Morning in Tower Grove Park

It’s usually quite early when I begin my day at the place that’s become my de facto backyard. Tower Grove Park, in St Louis, Missouri, is the jewel many visitors don’t even realise exists. That’s just fine by me. I prefer it quiet.

When my husband and I moved to the area two decades ago, we adored the historic homes, the comradery among neighbours, and being within walking distance of excellent culinary options, thanks to the many immigrant-owned restaurants along our stretch of South Grand Boulevard.

But the park? It was the clincher. Above anything else, Tower Grove cemented our relationship with this little slice of south St Louis, and I spend nearly every morning marvelling at its beauty.

Central Park in New York City might be better known, but I’m here to tell you, Tower Grove Park has it beat hands-down.

My regular 4-mile runs take me all the way around the 289-acre rectangular parcel of land. From my house, the park is just four blocks away. Passing through a grand limestone and ornamental wrought-iron gate, I enter a new world: a lush, gorgeous refuge in the city.

My happy place.

Tower Grove Park was entrepreneur Henry Shaw’s passion project. The English transplant pined for his homeland’s country gardens as he made a new home in America. First, Shaw built what would become the world-renowned Missouri Botanical Garden, opening it in 1859. Shaw then donated adjacent acreage to the city, with the express purpose of creating a public park. He led its design from plantings to pavilion construction, towering entrance gates, gorgeous picnic grounds, and of course, the paths perfect for strolling. When Tower Grove Park started welcoming visitors in 1872, it was the place to see and be seen in St Louis.

Today, it maintains elegant, Victorian-era charm at every turn. My typical morning run takes me through stands of shady cypress, flowering magnolias and towering oaks. Heading west, I’ll jog by small stone cottages originally built for groundskeepers and alongside bold bronze statues of Shakespeare and von Humboldt. Near the park’s inner corridor, the Turkish Pavilion comes into my sightline about a mile in. You can’t miss it. Of the park’s 32 historic shelters, it’s arguably the grandest, its striped top resembling a giant peppermint candy.

Visitors to the Fountain Pond feed the ducks, fish for crawdads, and admire the water lilies. If I need a break to catch my breath, I’ll keep my eyes on the water long enough to spot turtles as they pop up for air or sun. If I remove my earbuds, I’ll hear the deep croaks of bullfrogs. On especially lucky days, I might get a hummingbird buzz-by, as the tiny avian powerhouses sip nectar from nearby flower beds and planters. I always stop to sniff the delicate, sweet scent of the reachable waterlilies near the shoreline. These quiet, reflective moments help me reconnect with nature while I’m in the city, gifts for which I’m grateful.

Continuing west, prairie grasses and wildflowers — certainly a more natural look — mix and mingle with carefully manicured flower beds. Birders with their binoculars routinely gather here, spotting up to 200 different species during peak migration in the spring and fall.

Looping now back to the east, I spy the small limestone house where Jeff lives. He tends to Moonshine, the park’s Clydesdale, and Sheffield, its miniature pony. Often, I’ll see the horses munching away on hay in their pasture. Occasionally, Jeff will walk Sheffield throughout the park, ensuring they both get their steps in.

There are other animals, of course, who reside in Tower Grove. I’ve seen deer, raccoons, and once, even a pair of silent, stealthy coyotes. Today, a red-tailed hawk swoops in on some prey, leaving chattering, alarmed squirrels in its wake.

The last bit of my route takes me past the Piper Palm House, once a plant conservatory, now an incredible special events venue. The Director’s Residence, a pretty mishmash of neoclassical and Italianate architecture, was supposed to be the first of many villas that would line the park’s boundaries, but the plan stalled. Today, it’s a reminder of the families who lived there in service to this remarkable green space.

As I power to the top of Tower Grove’s last rather steep hill before exiting and heading back home, I feel a deep sense of gratitude despite my fatigue. This beautiful nature break is always an invigorating start to the day, and I’m so fortunate to have it just steps from my home. While I run this route regularly, there’s always something new to see, smell or hear.

You just have to pay attention.

Erika Ebsworth-Goold

Storyteller

Erika Ebsworth-Goold is a US-based two-time Emmy-award winning journalist now focused on travel, adventure, lifestyle and culture. She's been commissioned by Fodor's, Matador Network, Midwest Living, Insider, and is a frequent contributor to TravelAwaits, an online travel hub for 50+ travellers and adventurers. Erika is a proud member of the Adventure Travel Trade Association, the Society of American Travel Writers, and the Midwest Travel Journalists Association.

Time to Read: 3 Minutes

Storyteller: Erika Ebsworth-Goold

7 October 2023

Category:
Local Stories - Nature

A fiery sunset behind Brighton Palace Pier. | This photo by Wallace; all others by Paul Clark

Exploring North Laine in Brighton

Brighton, on the Sussex coast, has been a tourist town for centuries. With the coming of the railways in the 1800s, it became the perfect place for a day out or a weekend at the seaside. The piers, beaches, promenade, restaurants, nightclubs and the ‘Lanes’ attracted everyone from royalty to working people.

The Lanes are the busy narrow alleys filled with neat shops and restaurants in the old part of the city near the waterfront. They’re a ‘must visit’ — but what many visitors miss is North Laine. The word laine is old English for an empty plot of land beside the South Downs. Two hundred years ago, the North Laine filled up with factories, houses and shops. By the mid-20th century, manufacturing had mostly disappeared and it was considered an overcrowded slum.

Developers wanted to tear it all down and build high-rises. In 1977, after a courageous fight, some locals managed to save it and turn it into the ‘bohemian’ part of Brighton. Craftsmen, antique dealers, unique shops, theatres and eateries moved in. A diverse community of people occupied and renovated the tiny 1800s houses. It is now the coolest part of Brighton, and has been rated as one of the best shopping areas in all England.

Our trip through North Laine started one bright and sunny morning when we arrived at Brighton railway station. We popped out of the station, turned a corner onto Trafalgar Street, and a two-minute stroll brought us to the colourful Prince Albert Pub. In 2004 Banksy painted the Kissing Coppers on the pub’s wall. The picture was removed for safekeeping and a copy was put in its place (the original was later sold). Also on the walls of the pub are portraits of dozens of dearly departed rock stars; always good for a picture.

Continuing along Trafalgar Street we passed outdoor coffee shops, restaurants, pubs and vintage clothing stores. Another two minutes later and four streets along, a right turning took us onto Trafalgar Lane. There’s not much to buy down this street, but the walls covered with street art and graffiti made this a must-see, adding to the artistic flavour of the North Laine. At the next corner, Gloucester Road, we turned left past a fascinating architectural salvage shop and through a small pedestrianised area. Here we found a Mexican restaurant and a curios shop. With so much to see, we didn’t know where to look first.

Turning right onto the next road, Upper Gardner Street, was a real surprise. On Saturdays, it’s closed to traffic and becomes a crowded street market. Tables are set up along the road and we found bargains everywhere in this huge flea market. Thank goodness we brought lots of bags and came early. We could not miss the bright pink North Laine Bazaar sign nearby; it’s like a street market but indoors. Over 50 stalls offered antiques, homewares, collectables, garden supplies and so much more.

We came to the corner with North Road where we found a bright yellow music emporium sporting a giant six-string guitar-shaped sign. The original store started as a stall in Kensington Gardens 30 years ago. We wandered through vintage guitars, modern electronics and used equipment. I was absolutely fascinated even if I cannot play anything musical; I have trouble with a record player.

Turning left at the next corner brought us to the heart of North Laine, Kensington Gardens. The narrow lane is lined with tables and outdoor racks from dozens of different shops, bars and restaurants. We found vintage clothing, curios, body piercing practitioners, fur-lined vests, collectables, candies, jewellery, fabrics, vegetarian foods, bakery goods and great coffee… all in one block.

From there, it was only a few steps to Snoopers Paradise. We duly snooped through over 90 stalls of curios, antiques, used clothing, artwork and crafts on two floors. It took nearly two hours to check out everything in there. This market is unique because there’s only one cash register at the entrance but always someone around to help if you need it. The local people we chatted with said that they come every week or two because of the changing array of merchandise and fresh stallholder turnover. You never know what you’ll find.

We ended up back on Gloucester Road in a small pedestrianised area. Turning left on Sydney Street, we couldn’t resist one last stop at an old-fashioned record shop with lots of vinyl at great prices (it’s having a revival you know). We were starting to flag, so headed up Sydney past an international selection of restaurants, bookstores, used clothing and a kaleidoscope of stores that was nearly overwhelming. Though the distance travelled wasn’t great and our itinerary covered a compact area, we felt we’d seen the world through the dazzling selection of offerings along the way.

Returning to Trafalgar Street at last, we started to head back to the railway station. On the way, we stopped at a friendly pub to pick up our spirits and then hauled all our shopping bags over to a Vietnamese restaurant for a slow peaceful meal. Refreshed but tired we hustled to the station in time to catch our train.

What a great day out. We didn’t spend time at the glitzy waterfront or browse the touristy Lanes, but instead headed straight into the heart and soul of Brighton — North Laine.

Richard Powell

Traveller

Richard Powell is an expat Canadian freelance writer/photographer. His articles and stories have appeared in local and international magazines and blogs. He also writes both fiction and non-fiction books. Richard’s history/travelogue of Stane Street in South East England was published in 2021. It combined his passions for photography, writing, research, and history. Drawing on his earlier life as an IT analyst, entrepreneur, curios shop owner, and publican, Richard is now applying his enthusiasm to writing on the island of Cyprus where he lives with his wife.

Time to Read: 4 Minutes

Traveller: Richard Powell

5 October 2023

Category:
Travellers' Tales - In this Moment

We rely on the truth of the stories travel writers tell us; but how can anyone know unless they go?

Keeping it Real: Authenticity in Travel Writing

“Be yourself – everyone else is already taken.” This ode to authenticity is quite clever, just the kind of thing a famous wit like Oscar Wilde would write, and a quick internet search turns up thousands upon thousands of results saying that it is indeed his. But there’s only one problem: we have no evidence he authored it. Yes, he did express similar sentiments in other ways, but in those seven pithy words? Never happened.

Misquoting historical figures is common practice online and in social media, as it’s very easy for an appealing turn of phrase like the above to catch fire and spread. Once it’s posted, copied, and duplicated some more, with a reach that grows exponentially, it becomes difficult to separate the truth from the fiction… and at some point, it’s widely accepted at face value that the words (incorrectly) put in the mouths of Wilde, or Gandhi, or Sun Tzu, or Shakespeare were indeed things they actually said.

This assumption that what we’re told must be true when it’s repeated in a respected publication or penned by a well-known author extends to travel writing, long a murky area when it comes to stretching the truth. Ben Cocking, Senior Lecturer in Media & Culture at the University of Roehampton in the UK explains in an article published in the JOMEC Journal;

“Travel writing has always had a complex and contentious relationship with the truth. It cannot offer readers the reality of the journeys its authors (allegedly) undertook since, quite simply, the reader was not there. Rather, readers must content themselves with narrative accounts of journeys where markers of authenticity stand in for an inaccessible truth.”

So let’s look at these markers of authenticity. Have you ever been reading a story about a place you know like the back of your hand — your own hometown or somewhere you’ve lived for a good while — only to spot inconsistencies with reality? Has the geography been mangled, are ‘popular’ places mentioned that have been closed for some time? Are descriptions bland, unspecific, and generic? Does it just feel inauthentic, and create a growing suspicion that the person who wrote it surely never set foot there themselves?

As we examine this, it’s worth mentioning that authenticity is very much in the eye of the beholder. Each of us arrives at a destination with our own perceptions and points of view, informed by the lives we’ve lived up to that point. No two good writers would describe a place the same way, and we wouldn’t want them to. But a writer’s observations will be coloured by their age, place of birth, experiences, and the openness of their mind and heart. In an ideal world, a travel writer brings along a childlike willingness to try new things, learn lessons, and shed preconceptions.

Historically, this wasn’t always the case. People from some parts of the world had fantasies about other parts of the world. They had already decided what they’d find in these ‘storied’ locations before arrival, and perhaps didn’t make the most of their visit as a result. Instead, they focussed on a box-ticking exercise encouraged by the same old stories.

While colonialistic attitudes, questionable journalistic practices, or possibly even faulty memories can be at play, at least until very recently human beings have been involved in the creation process (for better or worse). But now, artificial intelligence is coming to the fore, and riding to the rescue for publications’ squeezed budgets. AI is cheaper and easier to manage than those pesky human writers. So the pitfalls of inauthenticity have become no longer a case of a person not visiting a destination, or giving us an inaccurate picture; but of no person in the picture at all.

What’s the harm in this, you ask? So what if ChatGPT wrote a guide to Dublin, rather than someone who has lived there for well over a decade, isn’t it still a useful tool? Not necessarily.

In a discussion forum on tourism network Travel Massive, the question was asked: “Could AI content generators replace travel writers?” Freelance writer Sherri Telenko is strongly against the notion: “No. What about credibility? Journalistic principles? Honest recommendations based on experience? Posting an article generated by AI stating, ‘Hey, I went to Dublin and stayed at X hotel’ when you really didn’t is a lie. And even if you did go, this isn’t your experience. I know travel writing has been on a slippery slope for a while, but when did it start being OK to fill sites with fake content?”

Here at Resonate, we couldn’t agree more. Though any hack writer (or AI substitute) can churn out questionable content at an impressive rate, we know that intimate local knowledge, and genuine recommendations based on experience, are essential to authentic travel writing that readers can trust. So is the human touch.

This is what motivates us. Every word on this site is written by real people passionate about truthful travel stories. In some cases, they’re describing their daily lives and their home place, and in others, they’ve had a transformative experience as a visitor and want to share it with the world. They tell us of amazing people and take us to astonishing places. We collaborate with local voices and amplify authentic travel inspiration because we believe that there’s nothing like a genuine tale well told, and there’s no substitute for the real thing.

Emily Cathcart

Resonate Team

From her base in Ireland, Emily Cathcart was delighted to join Resonate as a Content Manager and has been revelling in the opportunity to collaborate with writers worldwide ever since. Emily enjoys encouraging authors through the creation process and also helping non-writers to tell their tales — all with Resonate’s ethical principles in mind. When she isn’t busy commissioning or editing, she can be found, camera in hand, seeking out-of-the-way discoveries for her own site that’s literally All About Dublin. And when Emily’s not working on any/all of the above, she’s writing articles and photo essays as a freelance journalist for publications from boutique magazines to national newspapers.

Time to Read: 4 Minutes

Resonate Team: Emily Cathcart

3 October 2023

Category:
From the Editor

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Graeme Hanna

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Erin Coyle

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Richard Powell

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