Month: October 2022

Upon Arrival

After a visitor arrives in my city, I always recommend going straight to the Central Square (Piața Unirii) and the pedestrian street, Pietonala, (or Republicii Street, its official name), because this is where you can get the real local vibe, admire the city’s architectural jewels, and get tourist information from the tourist office located beside the theatre.

The best time to be here is spring (March-May) or autumn (September-November). During springtime, the city blossoms with renewed energy and different flower and tree species, which you can admire when walking along the Criș River, in the central area. In autumn, you can see, taste, and smell the fruits of summer during the Oradea Autumn Festival, which usually takes place between mid-September and mid-October, culminating with the City Day celebration on October 12.

I tell first-time travellers to visit the Baroque Complex. It is close to the railway station (about a 15-minute walk from the centre). It comprises the 1777 Palace of the Roman-Catholic Diocese of Oradea, the Church, and the Canons’ Row, one of the largest Baroque-style complexes in Southeast Europe. I also tell them to avoid walking along the main boulevards or streets, because of traffic.

The best museum to start your journey and get a good sense of this city is Oradea City Museum, which is located in the fortress, because it reveals the complex history of Oradea. You can follow its timeline while strolling through some of the oldest galleries in the fortress, but also find out more about the city during communist times or the modern age. The museum has  dedicated space to all the four main religions that have always coexisted in Oradea: Catholic, Orthodox, Protestant, and Jewish.

Parents should take their kids to Nymphaea Aquapark, one of the largest in Eastern Europe, because there is only one pool with natural thermal water, which makes it a perfect place for leisure with no restrictions. Oradea Fortress is also interesting for children, especially during a festival held here in the summer. A visit to Cair Paravel bookstore will also enchant the young ones.

Food from the Heart

Among the food (or dishes) my city is most proud of, plăcinta (a sort of pie fried in a pan, with filling) is an absolute must. I like to go to Plăcintăria Zena or Plăcintescu to really enjoy it. You will also find many places where some ladies make pies, as they are very popular in Oradea. The most traditional are the ones filled with potatoes, cabbage, or a mixture of cheese and dill.

When we get together to celebrate, beer or shots is what people here traditionally drink. Several types of craft beer have appeared in the last few years, and we even have a local brand called Bers Nova. I like to gather my friends and go to one of the pubs in the Black Eagle Passage (usually Lord’s Pub) for a round. This is the heart of Oradea nightlife, along with Moszkva, which has a more alternative feel. 

When I eat completely local, I will go to Rosecas restaurant. I know the food here is carefully prepared using quality ingredients and it is absolutely delicious. The vegan Cris restaurant, close to the fortress, is also a great option for me whenever I don’t feel like eating meat and I want to enjoy a healthy meal. For a snack, however, I will stop by the local Dorbob bakery, which has amazing treats and drinks.  

Another two classic, iconic restaurants include To Chefs (close to the City Hall) and Spoon, with its terrace overlooking the river. Via29 is another great option for a deliciously cooked, mostly Italian menu (which is very appreciated in Oradea). 

The part of town where locals come for traditional food is the Main Street (the pedestrian street), which is also the main target when it comes to the architectural side of Oradea. This street reveals the local atmosphere very well, especially during summer. Here you can enjoy the sight of some of the most beautiful early 20^th-century palaces of Oradea and have lunch or a snack, good coffee, and the best ice cream in the city.

Shopping Locally

My city is known for making shoes and clothes, in addition to its multicultural and architectural fame. Since the 1920s, a successful shoe factory functioned in Oradea. There were also important textile and fur factories. Those interested can still find quality shoes at very good prices at one of the outlet stores of Leofex or Clasicor companies. As for clothing or leather products, there are several private designer stores on the Main Street and the Art Gallery.

The best outdoor food market in Oradea is Piața Rogerius, which has been recently modernised and is no longer in the open air. In Oradea there are three such markets where locals from the neighbouring villages and from the county come to sell their products (mostly fruit and vegetables); they are open every day. 

And the best outdoor market to buy everyday items like tools, clothes, used cars, old furniture, and anything you might fancy is the Flea Market (also known locally as Ocska, the Hungarian name) or Piața 100, which is held on Saturdays and Sundays until 4:00 p.m. It is located close to the cemetery, but any local can direct you to it.

I always take visitors to museum shops to buy real local souvenirs. The products are guaranteed, usually hand made by local artisans, and the vibe is typical. They also offer specific products, depending on what the museum is about. And we know to avoid fake souvenirs because we rely on the choices made by the museum staff. The two museum-synagogues should also not be avoided, as they are very special.

Getting Deeper into Oradea

A great book to learn more about my city is “Oradea,” an album first edited by Muzeul Țării Crișurilor în 2001. It includes historical information about the city and its highlights.  

Most people know about the historical centre, the Fortress of Oradea, and the Baroque Palace, but  the Criș Country Museum (Muzeul Țării Crișurilor) should also be visited because there you can find out more about Bihor County, the wider region in which Oradea has developed. As the centre of the Roman-Catholic Bishopric as early as the 11^th century, Oradea became the place where the Romanians from the villages of Bihor would bring their taxes, which were due to the Hungarian Emperor.

My city is a place people are attracted to because of its art nouveau/secession architecture, which has been particularly enhanced during the last several years. Most of the emblematic buildings of Oradea — built with the help of architects from the Austro-Hungarian Empire — have been renovated in recent years and some are even included in local tourism programmes, although they are private homes. Start your city tour at the Black Eagle Palace, the most renowned of the local heritage buildings. Its stained-glass, Y-shaped passage is said to be inspired by Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan. 

To really celebrate my city at its best, come during the Oradea Autumn Festival (recently renamed FestiFall) because the City Centre is beautifully arranged for the occasion and you can attend a variety of events (including open-air concerts), as well as discover some of the hidden treasures of the city. 

Most people think of my city as a place to visit quickly and focus on its central part, but really this is a destination to explore in more depth, as it offers much more than just architectural wonders from different ages.

This is one of the best places in the world to experience the blending history of seven ethnicities, four religions, and the resulting cultures. Before getting city status, Oradea was settled by northern Thracian tribes, then Romanians, and then a Hungarian period, an Italian period, and other influences that shaped its multicultural identity. Locals are proud of that because the current city and its inhabitants are the result of this blend, the local spirit being one of acceptance and openness.

Getting Around Oradea

One thing you should know about getting around my city is that Oradea has a tram network, so it really is a pleasure to get around the city. As the city has expanded in the last 50 years, I do not recommend crossing it by foot. Most tourist spots, however, as well as the attractions, are close to the city centre. 

The best way to travel in my city to have as little impact as possible is by foot or by bike, especially if you want to stick to the central area. Oradea also has an iVelo bike rental facility at Parcul 1 Decembrie (open from April to October) and almost 40 km of bike routes marked within the city area (some of which are along the Peța brook). Today many locals own a bike, and this means of transport is gaining more and more popularity locally.

Luckily this method of transportation also allows me to avoid traffic, keep myself fit, and save time and money.

Outside the City

To get away and into the outdoors, I like to jump on bus 13 or my bike and get up on the hill, to walk through Săldăbagiu Forest, partly protected as a Natura 2000 site. Being here is great, especially during spring, when you can have a taste of the Allium ursinum (wild garlic) leaves that fill the forest with a beautiful green carpet and listen to a fabulous, springtime bird concert.

For a day trip beyond my city, I like to visit Baile Felix and 1 Mai, traditionally known for their spas that rely on a large underground thermal water deposit. You can easily reach Felix or the 1 Mai area by bus (it is only 8-10 km distance from Oradea) and then walk to the village of Betfia, where you can spend some quiet time in the open air and then get a bus back to Oradea. Betfia hill is a nature reserve, known for its fossils,  and has a vertical cave (not open for visits) and some rock climbing routes. 

Many people will head to Felix first, but locals know to go to 1 Mai, as a nice hiking route starts there, crossing a beautiful forest and reaching Betfia hill directly. In addition, Betfia has two horse riding facilities that I recommend.

I really enjoy the view of my city from Ciuperca Hill, about a 20-minute walk from the centre. You can have a break from the city and enjoy a natural setting and a city panorama. A simple restaurant is located on top of this hill, with a basic menu.

Connecting with Locals

When I want to have fun and celebrate being out in my city, I usually take a walk along the pedestrian street and stop at one of the terraces for a drink or some ice cream. 

To hang out with my friends and go to a real insider spot, I go to Moszkva, where I enjoy alternative music. I prefer to go there for an event, such as one of its fairs with local, hand-made products, or a concert. You can meet new people, dance, and have fun.

The best resource for finding out what’s going on around town is the official Visit Oradea page or Evenimente Oradea. There are usually also events on Facebook for most local happenings.

When I want to enjoy my city without spending much (or any) money, I just take a walk along the Quick Criș River. I also like to sit inside one of the impressive churches in the city centre: the Catholic St. Ladislas Church, the Orthodox Moon Church, or the Greek-Catholic St. Nicholas Church. The small and quiet church near Ady Endre High School, on the pedestrian street, used to be part of the Ursuline Monastery and is also one of my favourite places in the city.

The Philharmonic of Oradea is my first choice for music because they have classical music concerts every week, but also organise special concerts and events during the year, featuring local and international singers and composers. I also like to hear concerts in the Sion Synagogue or the Baroque church. And when I feel like dancing, I go to the Black Eagle Passage pubs or Moszkva for the atmosphere and music.

Finding Solitude in Oradea

When I want to go somewhere to sit and meditate about my incredible city, I go to the Ferdinand Square (where the pedestrian street starts) and walk for a while around the theatre. I like to watch the buildings and imagine what this place was like more than 100 years ago. 

If I chose the one place that makes me most proud of my city, it would have to be the Criș River and the walkway that follows it for about 4 km (from the Dacia Bridge to the Densușianu Bridge), because it makes a wonderful nature observation trail but also a pleasant running trail. You can walk or jog or even bike close to the water and cross a remnant of the old floodplain of the river, which gives a very special feeling of being in nature while still in the city.

When the Seasons Change, This City Shines

Spring (March-May) is the best time to witness the revival of nature in or around the city. Oradea still holds beautiful natural areas in its neighbourhoods: forests, a couple of lakes, and a range of small hills. Easily accessible, these are perfect spots to enjoy the warm spring sun and the blooming of the first flowers.

I always recommend visitors plan on coming to Oradea in the summer (June-August) because there are many interesting festivals and events that take place here (some in the city and some in the fortress). 

The fall (September-November) here is magical when you walk along the Criș River and watch the leaves falling, when you witness beautiful sunrises and sunsets from its banks, or when you watch the proceedings of the autumn festival from up the City Hall Tower, in early October.

The winter (December-February) is a great time to take a bath in hot water, while it is snowing outside. The best place for this is one of the outdoor pools in Băile Felix, where thermal water will relax your body perfectly. Before the bath you can even have a walk through the forest of Felix, which makes a perfect place for toning up.

Upon Arrival

Once a visitor arrives in my city, I always recommend going straight to the historic Old Centre — Centrul Vechi, in Romanian. Restored in 2015, this district still feels mediaeval and is the location for great food and the oldest architecture in Baia Mare. 

The best time to be here is during summer or early autumn — roughly June through September. That’s when the local climate (otherwise cold, as Baia Mare is surrounded by mountains and hills) is most pleasant, the local markets near the Old Centre are full of fresh, locally produced fruit and vegetables, and short trips to the surrounding outdoor areas are best enjoyed.

I tell first-time travellers to walk up the 45-metre-high Stephen Tower to get an overview of the city and surroundings. The tower represents the remains of the 14^th-century cathedral built for the Hungarian King Stephen. This is also the tourist information point. 

The best museum to start your journey and get a good sense of this city is the County History and Archaeology Museum on Monetariei Street. A visit will introduce the town’s history, provide a sense of its development around mining, and provide the opportunity to browse (and buy) books about Baia Mare and the Maramures Region.

Parents should take their kids to Queen Mary Park and the surroundings — known locally as Dealul Florilor (Flowers’ Hill), on the northern margin of the town and within walking distance from the Old Centre. There are playgrounds and a train to tour through the park. It is also a very good occasion to walk around in the open-air Village Museum and Ethnography Museum. In the newer part of town, the Planetarium and Astronomical Observatory, the largest in Romania, is also great for families.

Food from the Heart

Among the food (or dishes) my city is most proud of, the Christmas cozonac (rolled cake) is an absolute must. I like to go to the open-air Village Museum on Dealul Florilor, when they host the “Christmas in Maramureș” event, to really enjoy it. During this time, baking bread and rolled cake filled with walnut or poppy seeds in a clay oven is common.  

When we get together to celebrate, pălinca is what people here traditionally drink. You will be served pălinca when visiting a family or you attend a traditional event. I like to gather my friends and go to La Pălincie for a round of good quality plum pălinca, whether there is a special occasion or not. The inner terrace here is particularly beautiful in the summer, and they also serve a variety of other Romanian drinks and delicious dishes, including deserts. 

When I eat completely local, I will go to the restaurant at Mara Hotel in the New City Centre. I know the food here is locally sourced and prepared in a traditional manner. Still, it does not match the homemade food served in the guesthouses of Maramureș, as you will discover when you plan to visit the “extreme” Romanian north.

Another two classic, iconic restaurants include Bastion, featuring the traditional plăcinta (pie) with salty cheese, and La Tour Brasserie, next to the historical monument Stephen’s Tower. Both are near the Old Centre.

The part of town where locals come for traditional food is either the Old Centre or the neighbourhood of Mara Hotel (Mara Park), where several restaurants, cafes, and bistros prepare their culinary delights. As we still cook traditional meals at home, when we go out as locals, we will not necessarily look for Romanian specialties, but rather try to taste other foods. In addition to the above-mentioned restaurants, the favourite locations with an international menu are Millennium and Log Out Pub.

Shopping Locally

Baia Mare means “The Great Mine,” so my city is known for mining, as its name implies. The mining industry has dominated its evolution since prehistoric times and until the mines began to close in 1997. The greatest specialists in geology and mining lived and worked in Baia Mare and its surroundings, and most of the locals in this area worked in mining and related industries. Today visitors will find a city that is redefining its post-modern (and post-mining) identity.

The best outdoor food market in Baia Mare is Piața Izvoarele, the largest in town. It is close to the Old Centre and the Butchers’ Bastion, a remnant of the old town’s defense structure, which included seven such bastions for the guilds. The old town square hosts weekend food markets, where you can get a variety of local products from neighbouring villages.

I always take visitors to one of the city museums to buy real, local souvenirs. The products are adapted to each museum’s characteristics and the vibe is great, especially if you have already visited the museum. And we know to avoid products from regular shops because they are generally not representative of the city or locally made. 

Getting Deeper into Baia Mare

A great book to learn more about my city is the newly released “Illustrated History of Baia Mare,” which covers the blooming period of 1800-1950, presenting its landmarks in terms of economy, society, education, and culture.

Most people know about the city’s mining history, but the Museum of Mineralogy and the History Museum should also be visited because they offer documented and well-structured information. The Museum of Mineralogy hosts a unique collection of the most representative and beautiful gems, minerals, and fossils from the former mines in the region. I also advise visitors to avoid planning museum visits on Mondays, as they are all closed.

Baia Mare is also known for its School of Painting and some of its painters are renowned internationally. The ateliers (23 in total are active today) are hosted by the Colony of Painters, which has turned into a cultural hub of the city and is definitely worth a visit.

My city is a place people are attracted to because of its beautiful outdoor surroundings. “Le plein-air,” as the French put it, is so picturesque that many artists depicted various parts of the city in their works, some of which are exhibited at the Museum of Arts in the Old Centre. You will find locals strolling in parks or hiking in the hills. During the winter (December-February), almost everyone goes skiing on one of the nearby slopes.   

To really celebrate my city at its best, come during the last week of September because that is when the city hosts the famous Chestnut Festival. The sweet chestnut tree (Castanea sativa) is an emblem of the city, as it occurs naturally in patches of forest on the southern slopes of Ignis mountain, in the northeastern part of the city. This is said to be the northernmost reserve of chestnut trees in Europe. The festival lasts for a weekend, when chestnuts are ripe and you can eat them in a variety of ways (boiled, roasted, mashed etc.). On that occasion, you can also enjoy the unique exhibition of flower arrangements (Expo Flora), open-air fairs, activities for children, and various cultural events.

Most people think of my city as a place to cross on their way to historical Maramureș, but really this is a destination to enjoy at least for several days, whether you are continuing north or not. With its small-town advantages, its appealing historical background, the School of Arts, and its numerous outdoor locations, Baia Mare will keep you pleasantly busy.

Getting Around Baia Mare

One thing you should know about getting around my city is that the network of public transport (URBIS) relies mostly on buses, which makes it rather basic, but reliable and inexpensive. The bus stops around the city display the buses’ schedule. If you are a larger group, consider taking a cab (I recommend Gallant, charging 3 lei/km) or Bolt, a local transport network similar to Uber (via Google Play/AppStore).

The best way to travel in my city to have as little impact as possible is on foot or by bicycle. As the city is small, it is easy to move everywhere on foot in little time.

Luckily this method of transportation also allows me to avoid traffic and parking, visit more places, and interact more with people. Bike rental is available only at the Ski & Bike Centre near the old town square (around 16 euro/day).

Outside the City

To get away and into the outdoors, I like to take bus no. 1 all the way to Limpedea quarry and, from there, walk up to the borcut of Chiuzbaia on the tourist trail marked with a blue dot. Borcut is traditionally a regional word for spring of naturally sparkling mineral waters, rich in iron or sulphur. Because of the volcanic structure of Gutâi and Țibleș Mountains, there are about 100 such springs in Maramureș. 

For a day trip just beyond my city, I like to visit SIMARED Nautic Club, located on the side of Firiza Lake, 10 kilometres north from Baia Mare. 

Many people will head to Maramureș, but locals know to go to the many natural beauties that are somewhat hidden in the neighbourhoods of Baia Mare. These, along with the city museums, are worth visiting before you enter the Wooden Civilization, as they call the historical rural region of Maramureș.

I really enjoy the view of my city from Igniș Peak (1,307 metres), a former volcano that overlooks the city like a guardian. If you want to witness a spectacular summer sunset, head to the village of Chiuzbaia or Ferneziu (in between Ignis and Baia Mare), to see the sun against the mountain. There are regular buses connecting the city to these villages and you can get there in about half an hour.

Connecting with Locals

When I want to have fun and celebrate being out in my city, I go to Queen Mary Park and Câmpul Tineretului, where I can spend an entire day just relaxing in the sun, watching the people strolling, or enjoying a drink on a terrace. Sometimes I take with me a tasty, nourishing sandwich made by Bizo, probably the best bakery in town.

To hang out with my friends and go to a real insider spot, I go to Le Bistrot or Buonissimo near Mara Park, where I like to enjoy delicious sweets like ice cream or cakes — along with good coffee.

The best resource for finding out what’s going on around town is the electronic newsletter eZiarultău | Născut în Maramureș.

The Painters’ Colony is my first choice for music because they host great jazz concerts. For classical music I sometimes go to the Saint Trinity Church, right next to Stephen’s Tower. One of the oldest churches in the city, it also hosts beautiful carol concerts before Christmas. And when I feel like dancing, I go to one of the locations of the Chestnuts Festival for the open-air concerts.

Finding Solitude in Baia Mare

When I want to go somewhere to sit and meditate about my incredible city, I go to Câmpul Tineretului. Its position between the city and Dealul Viilor always helps me connect with myself and my surroundings.

If I chose the one place that makes me most proud of my city, it would have to be the Old City Centre, because of its special atmosphere, the numerous monument buildings that look like gingerbread houses, Stephen’s Tower, and the surrounding square.

When the Seasons Change, This City Shines

Spring (March-May) is the best time to take a walk or hike to one of the natural sites surrounding the city, easily accessible by bus or by car: Dealul Florilor, Limpedea, the former quarry with its basalt columns, Groapele Chiuzbăii on the way to Igniș Peak, Firiza Lake, Creasta Cocoșului nature reserve, and Mogoșa.

I always recommend visitors stay longer in Baia Mare in the summer (June-August) because this is when it is warmest (but still not hot), you have more time for being outdoors, and various events take place in the city (concerts, theatre plays, film festivals). Plus, the Painters’ Colony hosts arts exhibitions.

The fall (September-November) here is magical when you take a walk from the New City Centre to the Village Museum, crossing the residential area that follows Valea Rosie Stream and then Queen Mary Park. Make sure to take the small streets that lead straight to the park restaurant. When you get to the park, at the foot of Dealul Viilor, continue your walk through the Village Museum, as it is most beautiful in autumn. 

The winter (December-February) is a great time to go skiing in the surrounding mountains. There are several excellent slopes in Mogoșa, Șuior, and Cavnic. Cross-country skiing is also possible.