Resonate - 18 December 2022

The journey to Vaishno Devi is physically difficult but spiritually uplifting. | Photo: NARINDER PAL on Unsplash

A Spiritual Journey to Vaishno Devi

S. Rupsha Mitra heard stories about Vaishno Devi from her grandmother, but nothing could have prepared her for the difficult and spiritually enlightening pilgrimage to the shrine.

Vaishno Devi, located in Katra, Jammu, and Kashmir, is the famous divine destination of the Hindu Mother Goddess, Adi Shakti, or Durga. Grandmother had explained many myths about this place to us as children. As adults, my grandmother, my parents, my sister, and I decided to go on a pilgrimage to Vaishno Devi.

This pilgrimage was bright in our minds when we heard stories of the Shakti (cosmic feminine energy) rising in the mountains, but what we did not know was the arduous journey by foot that had to be accomplished in order to reach Vaishno Devi Temple.

In ancient times, the idea of a pilgrimage was considered to be the attainment of the omnipotent ishwar (supreme power) in mortal life. This pilgrimage delivered an utter euphoria that was quite indescribable in words. However, seated by the window of a three-star hotel, watching the twinkling shimmer of the mountains where Vaishno Devi Temple is located, I did not believe the 14-kilometre journey would be difficult.

We decided to start our journey at about 9:00 at night. After walking for a while, I realised how tedious it could be to walk for such huge stretches of time. It felt like an unending journey. My sister remarked she felt like going back. I was fatigued, yet the constant chanting of “jai mata di” (victory to the Mother Goddess) along the way and the eager excitement of my grandmother ignited a fire in me to continue walking.

We rested for some time between the long stretches of walking. While sipping chai (tea) in the recesses in time, we talked a lot about the age-old histories of Vaishno Devi and how the goddess took birth as a symbol of righteousness in the world. We talked about Indian mythology and the emergence of the Goddess as another rup (form) of Durga.

On our pilgrimage we watched palki bearers carrying old grannies and grandpas. They were chanting “jai mata di” along with the young people while their eyes glittered from the lights along the path. Some people rode horses all the way to the temple. I had a feeling of vibhatsam (repulsion) when I fell and hurt myself while climbing the steep slopes of the mountain. But everyone’s enthusiasm further inspired us in the journey full of hardships.

Halfway through the journey, we bought lathis (long bamboo sticks) from a nearby store for support while climbing. We were quite unprepared, not knowing what the temperature would be, and we didn’t have woolen clothes with us. As a result, as we neared the end of the journey, we were shivering from cold as it was raining.

Finally, after about twelve hours confronting all fears and difficulties, we reached the Vaishno Devi Temple. It was really a euphoric, divine feeling when we neared it.

Entering the shrine of the Goddess, I felt a rush of emotions in my heart, similar to the Rasa Theory, which is a theory of emotions stated in the Sanskrit treatise on the arts called Natya Shashtra. This theory of emotions initially depicts bhayanakam (fear), raudram (wrath), and vibhatsam (repulsion) — what I felt while confronting the difficulties — and it eventually gives in to shantam (peace). This is what I felt deeply in my ribs at the enlightening sight of the Goddess. It is a way of understanding, as I did, that there is no greater emotion than feeling that contentment and peace, then plunging into ecstasy. It is an amalgamation of all rasas.

In Lalon Fakir’s famous poem “Aarshinogor,” there is a verse that says “God lives in and within ourselves.” Similarly, it felt as if the Goddess had called upon us to journey to her shrine to explore the truth that she is actually always within us.

S. Rupsha Mitra

Traveller

S. Rupsha Mitra is a poet and writer from India. She loves to learn and write about spirituality. Her works have been published in London Reader, Mekong Review, North Dakota Quarterly, Science for the People Magazine, and Brown Girl Magazine.

Time to Read: 3 Minutes

Traveller: S. Rupsha Mitra

18 December 2022

Category:
Travellers' Tales - Customs and Traditions

A horseback safari in South Africa is the perfect cure for life running at full throttle. | Photo: Sophie Baker

In a Rush to Slow Down: What I Learned by Coming Face-to-Face with a Rhino

Always eager to keep herself busy, storyteller Sophie Baker struggled to slow down on a horseback safari. But as the days passed by, she realised nature had a humbling lesson to teach.

“Good things come to those who wait.”

“Patience is a virtue.”

I heard those phrases repeated throughout most of my life, as I raced from one task to the next. I was always looking for the next thing, always expecting immediate results.

You see, I’m one of those people who knows how to work hard but doesn’t know how to relax. I’m often overwhelmed with guilt for not constantly “doing stuff.” Lying at home on a Sunday watching TV? I’ll spend the whole time thinking how I could be more productive.

It’s probably no surprise that I took the fast lane to burnout. And when I did take my therapist’s advice to book a week away from work somewhere in nature, she probably didn’t envision eight hours a day in saddle with only my mount Castello between me and a trumpeting elephant, late night fireside chats with our German hosts, camping out under the stars with a pride of lions roaring us to sleep, and me climbing into bed each night exhausted from the day’s activities.

A horseback safari wouldn’t feel lazy or unproductive, I reasoned. I’d be keeping fit, chalking up new experiences, and ticking items off my bucket list.

And so it happened that I convinced myself that a horseback safari would be the ideal way to spend a sweltering hot week in March. Named Wait a Little because of the wag-n-bietjie trees scattered across 30,000 hectares, the lodge within South Africa’s Karongwe Private Game Reserve — where the scene was set for my Big Five horseback adventure — couldn’t have proven more apt.

Initially, I was on edge, partly due to excitement, partly due to anxiety. Despite being a competitive dressage rider, the biggest hazard I usually face is my horse being scared of a plastic bag. Nobody needed to remind me that the stakes here were far higher.

But the real reason for the slight feeling of unease had nothing to do with that. Truly, it was the knowledge that I can be a holiday spoiler. Why are we in bed when we could be seeing things? Should I check my emails just once more before we grab lunch in Hoi An? Take a nap or watch TV when we’re in the Alps? Absolutely not.

Admittedly, there was little chance of the trip being boring. But the idea of spending eight hours a day on horseback and not seeing any of the Big Five stressed me out. I can ride horses at home; what if Wait a Little didn’t live up to my expectations?

During the first ride, I was constantly thinking about where we’d go next and what we’d see. Would a giraffe be waiting around the corner? Would we be experiencing those up-close-and-personal interactions with elephants and buffalo? Could we at least canter along the bank of the Makhutswe River instead of walking along it as we tracked down wildlife?

As the days went by, I quickly realised that I had to slow down and just go with the flow. Sometimes we’d gallop along dusty roads as the African sun slowly sank, turning the surrounding bushveld purple and orange. Other times, we’d dawdle, quietly listening to the sounds of the bush.

As we rode, I learned to appreciate the small things: a termite mound, a colony of ants marching along in single file, a lone porcupine scuttling across the undergrowth, or an in-depth discussion about solutions to rhino poaching with head guide Phillip, a horseman of note and a fountain of bushveld knowledge.

Of course, we did have plenty of those magical sightings. We were privileged enough to stand in an entire herd of elephants, who wound their trunks into the trees overhead, chewing thoughtfully as they looked down on us. A pride of sleeping lions lazily flicked their tails at us as we observed them from mere metres away — a young male even padding quietly right behind us once we turned and left. “Don’t worry, he’s just seeing what we’ll do,” Phillip said. “It’s fine. Just stay in a single file and don’t trot.” Sure enough, the youngster gave up on following us once he realised the horses weren’t acting like typical prey animals.

There was one sighting that really stood out, though. After three hours of quietly picking our way through thorny thickets, battling stifling heat and dust, and traversing steep riverbanks, we knew we were close to some rhino. Slowly but surely, we ventured deeper into the bush, silently listening for signs of munching or moving until we found two rhino bulls standing in a clearing.

Between the ears of my lanky Warmblood, Castello, I watched as one heaved a big sigh and flopped down to take a nap, totally comfortable in our presence. The remaining bull slowly sauntered up to us, wanting to take a closer look. Castello stretched out his nose in greeting. The rhino gracefully extended his own neck, and his wide lips touched against the muzzle of my horse. For a few seconds they stood, nose to nose in greeting. No game trucks, no cameras clicking, nothing.

It’s impossible, when seeing the individual eyelashes of your horse up against the deep-set wrinkles of a rhino’s mouth, not to feel humbled. I sat stock still, almost breathless, as I mused over the fragility and strength of these two animals and the interconnectedness of all living creatures.

My trip to Wait a Little was the perfect reminder that, sometimes, slow and connected is better. I left with the realisation that you can have lofty goals and ambitions, but that on your way to the top of the mountain, it’s refreshing to take a break and savour the view of where you already are.

I learned to accept that some journeys shouldn’t be rushed but rather drawn-out, deliberate, and purposeful as you take the time to, well … wait a little.

Sophie Baker

Storyteller

Sophie Baker is a freelance travel, content, and equestrian writer with a decade of experience. She lives in South Africa and has been published both locally and internationally. When she’s not telling stories about the people, places, and cultures she’s encountered, she can usually be found cooking, tasting new foods and wines, or riding her horse. To find out more about her work or read more articles, visit her online or on LinkedIn.

Time to Read: 5 Minutes

Storyteller: Sophie Baker

18 December 2022

Category:
Local Stories - Nature

4S offered solace when it was needed most. | Photo: Vinay Chandnani

On Your Way to Loneliness, Stop By 4S, Delhi

Moving to Delhi in the middle of the lockdown, Maya S. found distraction, comfort, and a sense of identity in the unlikeliest of places.

While the first winter of 2021 was horrible on the outside — so cold, so terribly cold — what was happening on the inside was worse. In the middle of the lockdown, I moved to Delhi, where I couldn’t meet people’s eyes. The thought of being alone in a new city was petrifying, as if I was trying to jangle a bath stopper while the water continued to overflow.

My new flatmate would often talk about how she went to 4S after work. It was a great place to meet people, get to know about their work. And, of course, the abundance of alcohol and the environment of a bar helped move things along smoothly in a way that the coldness of professionalism or competition wasn’t immune to.

I’ve found it to be true: If you throw a stone, it will land on a lawyer, and you can always spot a newcomer. “Think: a journalist and lawyer bar and restaurant,” she’d said while describing it to me once. She was a journalist. I wasn’t.

In the middle of the Defence Colony Main Market, 4S sits quietly. A Chinese and Thai bar and restaurant, it offers an assortment of fast food and cheap alcohol for that part of town. It’s about 25 feet long and 12 feet wide, with a smaller, darker repetition of these approximate measurements on the second floor. There is also an empty aquarium at the entrance, which used to house goldfish before my time.

It can get busy to the point that there are no seats, like you’re on a train drinking with everybody in your compartment. On one of these days, when I was having a beer and glancing at the TV, a stranger tapped me on the shoulder to ask, “Are you new here?” I’d gotten so comfortable at 4S that the idea of looking like an outsider was highly offensive. After a year-and-a-half of coming here incessantly, each week, and smoking with the lizards and cockroaches outside, I had earned the right to be identified as a regular — I was, and wanted to remain, on the inside.

He was holding an orange cocktail. “No, but you clearly are,” I said without menace. He was handsome with a great head of hair. You don’t order cocktails at 4S; everybody knows that.

What was it about this timeless hole of a place? The usual stars of a good review — alcohol, food, and decor — are hardly remarkable.

Drinking alone was easier than eating alone, but alcohol is not the star of this story. It was the realisation that our desires are alive after all. It’s the ability to go and exist outside of your life, hoping for a chance, a glimmer, a flirt. An empty glass is inviting; an empty plate, damning.

I do not know what it is that makes a place special, but I imagine it is the way in which it can convince you of being special. 4S is spectacular because of its myths and supposed magic — a temple that features in stories that speak of moving to a new city, coming of age, finding a romance. It effuses a lack — the soft pain of loneliness that we’ve come to know so well. And it sells. Desire is peddled by longing, and there is a lot to want in a city.

Moving to Delhi was a dream I held onto throughout university, and when the pandemic hit, it offered me a roadmap to my desires. I do not know what I’m supposed to do now, but at least I know where to go. I knew that I loved someone who lived there, and that I needed bookstores, a living city.

The capital is the best seat in a country; how could I be lonely? And what will you be looking for while you’re feeling lonely? Of course, other people — a life to inhabit that is decidedly not yours.

How do cities maintain their perpetual busyness? Is it a question of offering lucrative jobs, great roads to drive shiny cars on, or the ability to house hundreds in an apartment complex? The answer can only be an ever-renewing stream of lonely people and ebbing desires.

Dive bars like 4S allay the loss of meaning. Their gutter-like openness welcomes all our depravity, atrocious vulnerability, and inappropriate drunken behaviour that is often a result of things aforementioned. No one can see you like strangers in a bar can: a totem of all that is inherently human, somewhat in pain, and usually in need of a drink.

Bars like 4S exist everywhere. The delight is in finding one that makes your loneliness more livable and liberating. Under this dimly lit solitude, surrounded by bar-goers that I love, my world as I know it could come to an end, and I wouldn’t notice. Why would anyone be interested in settling for less than a perfect distraction?

Maya S.

Storyteller

Born in 1998, Maya S. was raised in Bihar, India. Their essays speak about living in cities, lovelessness, and faith. Maya read history, literature, and sociology at Ashoka University to their parents’ satisfaction, works in education, enjoys all things jazz, and is learning to play the saxophone, terribly. They live in New Delhi and wish their arms were long enough to embrace the city. You can reach out to them at dotmayadash@gmail.com or on Instagram.

Time to Read: 4 Minutes

Storyteller: Maya S.

18 December 2022

Category:
Local Stories - In This Moment

Millions of animals, including 1.5 million wildebeest, are part of the Great Migration every year. | Photo: Harshil Gudka on Unsplash

The Maasai Play a Key Role in Saving the Great Migration from Extinction

Spanning from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Maasai Mara in Kenya, the circular Great Migration path is an awe-inspiring display of biodiversity, but it is in grave danger. Those most attuned to the land — the Maasai tribe — are also the ones best equipped to save it.

The Great Migration in the Maasai Mara is one of the Seven New Wonders of the World. Every year, 1.5 million wildebeest, 400,000 zebras, 12,000 elands, and 300,000 Grant’s and Thomson’s gazelles make the 1,930-kilometre (1,200-mile) trek from Tanzania’s Serengeti near the Ngorongoro Conservation Area to Kenya’s Maasai Mara. Along the way, prey must maneuver treacherous paths and deadly predators including crocodiles, lions, cheetahs, and hyenas, which wait to stalk, hunt, and kill their next meal.

The “biggest mammal trek in the world” is a continuous, circular, year-round trek that wildlife make in search of fertile lands to mate and give birth. Its timing depends upon the animals, weather, and environment. When all the roles are played out in this monolithic migration of mammals, there is harmony in the greater ecosystem.

Unfortunately, this New Wonder of the World faces an imminent threat of extinction.

According to a 2015 research paper published by the Maasai Mara Science and Development Initiative, the Maasai Mara ecosystem faces increasing challenges that endanger the Great Migration and the Maasai people. These are clustered into four groups: climate change and land use challenges, ecosystem challenges, political and economic challenges, and human and cultural challenges.

Climate change has a direct correlation with wildlife and their migration paths, tourism, and water resources. Weather patterns are changing quickly, and seasons are becoming more unpredictable every year.

Meanwhile, population growth is impacting land use, tenure, and cover changes. While agricultural practices have expanded in the Maasai Mara, this has decreased the integrity of the ecosystem: Deforestation in Narok County, a declining water volume in the Mara River, and soil degradation are all urgent problems. Conflict between humans and wildlife results in disease transmission from wildlife to humans, livestock, and domestic animals. Poaching also results in biodiversity loss.

Politically, there are local governance issues related to inconsistent laws and policies, corruption, and conflicting regulations that strain available economic resources. Societal-related conflicts have resulted in a declining emphasis on cultural heritage, and this endangers Indigenous food, traditional medicine, art and crafts, and language. The Maasai tribe’s patriarchal society results in unequal power distribution and illiteracy within the community. There’s also a lack of community involvement and environmental education.

The changes impacting the Great Migration also impact the Maasai, nomadic pastoralists who move year-round throughout the migration range with their herds of livestock to graze. They once occupied the most fertile lands in Kenya, but relinquished 60% of their most productive and fruitful land via treaty in 1911 to white settlers and were forced to move to the Maasai Mara and Serengeti. Throughout the years, the Maasai have remained resilient against British colonialists and refused to conform and modernise, choosing instead to practice their traditional customs.

Given this, the Maasai are the last custodians of the Maasai Mara-Serengeti ecosystem and the best equipped and most appropriate people to preserve and conserve the environment.

This is where the Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust comes in. Made up of professional conservationists and representative leaders from the Maasai community, the non-profit organisation is making serious strides to preserve and conserve this fragile part of the world. Focused on five pillars — conservation, education, health, livelihoods, and ecotourism — the Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust carries out programmes that support the Maasai. This support is intended to assist them in restoring and improving their quality of life and help them create livelihoods for themselves in light of the many dire challenges facing their homeland.

The NGO’s conservation programme has decreased poaching by 26% since 2013 and contributed nearly $70,000 to conservation efforts. The education programme has supported more than 9,400 and built 11 structures. Additionally, the Trust supports five health centres and served nearly 34,000 patients in 2021.

A high-quality, diversified, grassroots-driven emphasis is integrated throughout the programmes. For example, the livelihoods programme’s well-rounded efforts include establishing women’s groups, training girls in coming-of-age rituals free of female genital mutilation (FGM), investing in seed harvesting, and working with vendors to sell jewelry abroad. Additionally, ecotourism is slowly and responsibly being developed, with low-capacity camps, environmentally sustainable infrastructure, and 95% of its staff from the local Maasai community.

The Maasai Mara ecosystem — and, therefore, the Great Migration — faces an uphill battle. Initiatives like those seeded by the Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust are important for recognising the importance of the Indigenous community and empowering them in restoring this ecosystem. The Maasai are vital to the Great Migration’s future: Without them, this New Wonder of the World may cease to exist.

Mwende Mutuli Musau

Activist

Mwende Mutuli Musau is a freelance writer from Kenya. She covers travel, culture, and food for an array of international publications. Mwende is an ardent African traveler who began exploring the world in her early childhood and it has become a part of her lifestyle. Mwende also has a passion for content creation; she actively creates travel content on Tiktok, Instagram, and Youtube. During her leisure time, she's a healthy girl who eats sustainably and is a fitness fanatic. Mwende enjoys spending time in nature, reading books, and yoga.

Time to Read: 3 Minutes

Activist: Mwende Mutuli Musau

18 December 2022

Category:
Burning Issues

Enjoy sipping a cocktail while watching the sun set behind the Edro III shipwreck. | Photo: Richard Powell

Archaeological Sites, Mediterranean Flavours, and Beaches Galore in the Paphos District, Cyprus

The Paphos District in Cyprus is one of the most popular areas for visitors to this Mediterranean holiday destination. The district’s capital city, also called Paphos, has a beautiful harbour, ancient structures, old town market area, museums, wonderful food and wine, and lively nightlife.

Outside the city, the wider district presents travellers with mountain trails, valleys with vineyards and orchards, ancient villages, relaxing beaches, intriguing history, and sunny taverna patios to enjoy traditional meals with local wines. Local expert Richard Powell gives us a tour.

Upon Arrival

After a visitor arrives in my city, I always recommend going straight to the old harbour because this is the most memorable place in the city. On one side is the sparkling sea and lovely beaches, and along the other side of the seawall are restaurants, bars, hotels, and shops. Enjoy local food, a cold beer, a splash in the warm sea, boat tours, archaeological sites, or just people-watching while catching the sun’s rays. In the evening the taverns and nightclubs have great entertainment. Alternatively, visitors can take in one of the open-air music festivals in front of the 500-year-old fort.

I always tell first time visitors to learn a few words in Greek — “good morning,” “hello,” and “thank you.” It goes a long way with the locals, who will probably answer you in English. I also recommend getting out and visiting the old villages in the hills — the district is far more than just the city. I tell them to avoid the “tourist strip” and the big mall.

People from here know better than to be out in the mid-day sun. They prefer to be more laid back, enjoying a nap under an umbrella by the sea or the pool, or enjoying a drink in the lush gardens of the local taverns.

Paphos has many millennia of history with archaeological sites and museums everywhere. The best place to start your journey and get a good sense of this history is the Paphos Archaeological Park. Spread over a large area by the harbour, ruins of Roman villas and forums with beautiful mosaics are everywhere. Spread around the city are museums for bronze-age finds, the Byzantium era, the Ottoman empire, and everyday living. Whenever travelling in the hills, I keep my eye out for little museums in the ancient villages. Travellers can find displays dedicated to wine, cheese, lace, Orthodox icons, basket making, and monastic life.

For families with kids, the district is very much a beach place. Most of the beaches are blue-flagged, which means they reach the highest standards of the European Union. All the popular ones have excellent facilities. The clear water is warm most of the year, and the beaches are sandy with gentle slopes.

Food from the Heart

Among the food my district is most proud of is always fresh and healthy. Traditional Cyprus food is considered to be part of the healthy Mediterranean diet with fresh fruit, vegetables, and olive oil. One of the best local dishes is souvla, made from large pieces of chicken or pork on big skewers roasted slowly over a charcoal barbecue — so tender and delicious! This is served with a village salad and hand-cut chips. The best place in the district for this treat is at Viklari, also known as The Last Castle. The food, views, and atmosphere are worth the excursion.

When we get together with friends, it is usually around the pool for a barbecue where the iconic local beer KEO is evident in its bright yellow tins. For wine lovers, there are 52 award-winning wineries on Cyprus with some very unique grape varieties. The end of an evening meal is often finished off with a shot of zivania, a liqueur made from distilling local wines. Believed to be more than 500 years old, this liquid is like brandy or grappa. It has a real kick.

When I eat locally, I love visiting traditional restaurants, especially if they have a vine covered patio or garden. One of my favourites is Gianni’s in the village of Kathikas, where I have never been disappointed with the homemade Cypriot fare.

Beyond the local meals, I also enjoy Orino’s by the Sea, where you sit outdoors enjoying delicious international dishes and cocktails while watching the sunset behind the Edro III shipwreck. Another popular spot is Tweedies in the village of Kissonerga. There are only eight tables inside, but in the summer, the garden is beautifully lit.

The Paphos locals usually leave the harbour area to the tourists and dine in the many restaurants in the Old Town area up the hill.

Shopping Locally

The Paphos District is known for its many crafters and artisans. Here you can buy beautiful handmade lace, copperware, leather products, fused glass, ceramics, woven textiles, and baskets. At the Paphos Old Town municipal market, we find everything from fresh produce to crafts to souvenir items, plus there are some great little coffee shops and restaurants. I can spend hours wandering around, looking at the artisans’ workshops and their unique handmade crafts.

Many of the villages have farmers’ markets on different days of the week. Every Sunday and Wednesday, car boot fans will love the Duck Pond, a big flea market with fresh produce, new and used items, and curiosities. I suggest avoiding the big shopping mall because most of the products are imported and can be purchased probably cheaper where you live.

Getting Deeper Into Paphos District

A great book to learn more about the backcountry of Cyprus was written about 25 years ago. It is called “Walk with Aphrodite” and is about a man who walked through the villages and backroads of the island. If you are a walker or hiker, there are a couple of books written locally about walks in the Paphos District. Titled “On and Off the Beaten Track,” volumes 1 and 2, these were written by local walker/writer Sandra Sizmur.

Most people know about Cyprus being the birthplace of Aphrodite, the goddess of beauty, also known as Venus. Many visitors visit Aphrodite’s rock, where legend has it that if you swim around it three times you will be young, beautiful, and find the love of your life.

What most people miss is the archaeological site at Kouklia where the ancient capital of Cyprus held court for a thousand years until it moved to Paphos. At Kouklia you can find the ancient black stone worshipped as Aphrodite.

This district is a place people are attracted to not just for the sand, sea, and sun, but for the adventures and sights in the hills and valleys. Spring brings out the wildflowers and autumn is the harvest time.

To really celebrate this area at its best, come in the early autumn. The summer tourists are gone, the sea is still warm, the big festivals are happening, and the weather is perfect for relaxing or exploring.

Most people think of Paphos as a place for a seaside holiday, never leaving their hotel area. The adventurous visitor enjoys so much more with the sights, sounds, and places the ordinary tourist misses.

This is one of the best places in the world to safely experience the cultures of the Middle East, Europe, and Africa all in one place. You can enjoy unique tastes in food and wine at a laidback taverna in a mountain village, explore places people have lived in for more than 7,000 years, snorkel around sea caves in crystal clear warm water, hike up forested mountains, and enjoy the nightlife. International entertainment is available in open courtyards, ancient amphitheatres, lively nightclubs, and elegant halls.

Getting Around Paphos

The best way to get around Paphos city is by walking around the sights, restaurants, hotels, and beaches in the harbour area. Walking in the Old Town up the hill is the only way to access everything because most of the streets have been pedestrianised. This way you do not miss very much either. If you get a chance, take a look at the Kiniras Hotel, which is something out of colonial Cyprus.

For the rest of the district outside of the city, the best suggestion is to rent a car. Get something with high clearance if you plan on travelling the back roads. You might even want a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Outside The District

For a day trip just beyond the city, head for the town of Latchi on the north coast (a 45-minute trip), where you can get on one of the tour boats for the Blue Lagoon. The boat parallels the coast for an hour to a secluded cove, where the water is perfectly clear and warm and the mountains rise up magnificently from the shore. Enjoy swimming from the boat, sunning on the beach, or dozing on the boat. Most boats serve a nice lunch with some doing a Cypriot barbecue. After returning to Latchi, on the drive back to Paphos, stop at the Aphrodite Micro Brewery for craft beer or cider and the best pizza in the district.

Most people will head for Coral Bay for a day at the beach, but those in the know will head a few kilometres further along to Lara Beach, also known as Turtle Bay. This lovely sandy beach is home to the endangered green and leatherback turtles. Every summer they lay their eggs in the warm sand, and a few weeks later the baby turtles crawl back to the sea. Local conservation groups look after the nests and inform tourists about the turtles.

Looking for a great view? Just off the pretty city hall square in Old Town, the Muse Cafe offers an excellent place to enjoy a drink and watch the sunset over the lower town and the Mediterranean.

Connecting with Locals

When I want to have fun and celebrate being out in my city, I head for Bar Street at the harbour where all the restaurants, bars, and nightclubs are located. The city is safe with a low crime rate. I never feel worried being out at night.

To hang out with my friends and go to a real insider spot, I go to Craft Cafe Bar where I can relax and enjoy socialising. It’s down a little back street near the bus station. The atmosphere is great, the staff friendly, and the music cool.

The best resource for finding out what’s going on around town is the Paphos Facebook Page.

When I want to enjoy my city without spending much (or any) money, I walk around the harbour. Here I can watch the boats, feel the sea breeze on my face, poke around the stores, eat street food, enjoy a real Cyprus coffee, visit ancient sites, and jump into the sea to cool off.

Bar Street in the harbour is my first choice for music because there is always live music playing somewhere along the street. And when I feel like dancing, I go to Absolute-168 Nightclub in Coral Bay for the great music and easy access to the Coral Bay Strip.

Finding Solitude in Paphos

When I want to go somewhere to sit and meditate, I go to the area known as the White Cliffs, just north of the Peyia Sea Caves. I can hike down to the little coves at the cliff base by the sea and enjoy the water or the sunset. It’s never crowded and so peaceful.

If I chose the one place that makes me most proud of my city, it would be the Paphos Archaeological Park by the harbour. They have done a marvellous job of preserving and presenting the ancient ruins and history of this corner of the world.

When the Seasons Change, This Area Shines

Spring (March-May) is the best time to go walking through the hills and valleys of the district. The winter rains have stopped and everything turns green. Wildflowers are everywhere and the orchards are blooming at their brightest.

The best time to enjoy the beach, patio parties, and the laidback Cyprus lifestyle is in the summer (June-August). I love going up to the Troodos mounts, where visitors and locals have sought relief from the heat for centuries. King Farouk of Egypt invented the brandy sour cocktail here in the 1920s.

The fall (September-November) is the time for enjoying the festival season. There is everything on offer, from the wine and beer festivals to international opera. The days are a little cooler but the sea is still warm. The harvest is in and fresh produce is available everywhere. Walking in the hills is comfortable, and exploring the villages is appealing.

The winter (December-February) is a great time to go back to the mountains and try skiing. Mount Olympus has a few ski runs, which normally get a fair amount of snow because the winter is the rainy season. Cyprus gets more than 320 sunny days per year, so the rainy season is not that bad.

Richard Powell

Local Expert

Richard Powell is an expat Canadian freelance writer/photographer. His articles and stories have appeared in local and international magazines and blogs. He also writes both fiction and non-fiction books. Richard’s history/travelogue of Stane Street in South East England was published in 2021. It combined his passions for photography, writing, research, and history. Drawing on his earlier life as an IT analyst, entrepreneur, curios shop owner, and publican, Richard is now applying his enthusiasm to writing on the island of Cyprus where he lives with his wife.

Time to Read: 10 Minutes

Local Expert: Richard Powell

10 December 2022

Category:
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Upon Arrival

Food from the Heart

Shopping Locally

Getting Deeper Into Paphos District

Getting Around Paphos

Outside The District

Connecting with Locals

Finding Solitude in Paphos

When the Seasons Change, This Area Shines

Richard Powell

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