Gastronomical Delights, Music Festivals, and Silk in Lyon, France
Lyon, France, is a rich mix of historic sites, galleries, and culinary enticements. | Photo: Anna Richards

Gastronomical Delights, Music Festivals, and Silk in Lyon, France

Lyon has all the ingredients that make French cities so enticing: Gold-gilded buildings, suspension bridges crossing rivers lined with peniches (houseboats), galleries crammed with everything from classical sculptures to Impressionist masterpieces, wine bars, fine dining, bakeries and patisseries on every corner. Cram all of this into an area less than half the size of Paris and ring it with vineyards and mountains for good measure, and you’ve got France’s most underrated city. 

Local expert Anna Richards has all the secrets about this gastronomic hotbed sandwiched between two major wine-growing regions, the soft green hills of Pilat Regional Park, and snowy peaks of the Alps.

Upon Arrival

After a visitor arrives in my city, I always recommend going straight to Place des Terreaux. Not only is it in the heart of the city, home to the Beaux-Arts Museum and lined with bars and restaurants, but the ornate 17th-century Hôtel de Ville (city hall) which backs the square is one of the prettiest buildings in Lyon.

The best time to be here is early summer, when Lyon’s music scene reverberates from former sugar factories and Roman amphitheatres alike. Les Nuits de Fourvière, a two-month-long festival, runs through June and July, hosting nightly concerts in the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre above the city. 

I tell first-time travellers to hit the markets. Regular food markets line the banks of the twin rivers, the Rhône and Saône, and on Saturdays there’s a second-hand book market alongside the Saône. I also tell them to skip Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse which are much more expensive than other food courts and food markets in the city.  

People from here know better than to eat in the tourist trap bouchons (traditional restaurants) in Vieux Lyon. Le Vivarais, across the river in Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement, serves authentic cuisine made with ingredients that all come from the surrounding area. 

The best museum to start your journey and get a good sense of this city is the Musée d’Art Contemporain (modern art museum) in fast-paced, ever-evolving La Confluence, an exciting, up-and-coming district where the two rivers meet.
Parents should take their kids to the Parc de la Tête d’Or, where children can see giraffes in the heart of the city in the free zoological park.

Food from the Heart

Among the dishes my city is most proud of (and there are many — Lyon is France’s gastronomic capital), pink praline brioche is an absolute must. There’s hot competition for the best, but for me, the original creators always win. Pralus has several outlets across the city.

Celebration or bog standard weekday, wine is the drink of choice in Lyon, which is little surprise when it’s sandwiched between two major wine-growing regions: the Rhône Valley and Beaujolais. I always take my friends to Les Assembleurs, which has wine quite literally on tap.

When I eat completely local, I will go to Les Fromagivores for cheese boards that have you loosening your belt just by looking at them. The wine selection is great too.

Another two classic, iconic restaurants include Food Traboule (a food court hidden in the old covered passageways of Vieux Lyon) and Les Marmottes, in Lyon’s 3rd arrondissement, which makes a spectacularly good Boletto mushroom fondue.

The part of town where locals come for traditional food is the Presqu’Île, which has fantastic restaurants serving cuisine from all corners of France. For fine dining, I recommend Regain or l’Établi, while Breizh Café serves excellent Breton crepes and cider.  

Shopping Locally

My city is known for making silk, still available from many of the workshops in Lyon’s Croix-Rousse district. To find out how canuts (silk workers) wove the fabric in years gone by, visit the Maison des Canuts silk museum.

The best outdoor food market in Lyon is Marché Alimentaire Saint-Antoine-Céléstins, held daily except Mondays. It’s at its biggest and best on Sundays. The best outdoor market to buy other items is Les Puces du Canal, the enormous Sunday flea market which sells everything from socks to valuable antiques. (Leave the car at home, parking is always a nightmare.)

I always take visitors to the boutiques on the steps leading up to Croix-Rousse to buy real, local produce. Prints by local artists, ceramics, and jewellery handmade before your eyes are just some of the items available. The courtyard of artisan shops, Village des Créateurs, has some of the best locally made clothing. We know to avoid Vieux Lyon, where everything from fridge magnets to Lyon’s iconic rose praline comes with an inflated price tag.

Getting Deeper Into Lyon

The best book to read when you come to Lyon is “The Little Prince” by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, one of the city’s most famous alumni. Everything from the airport to city streets is named after him.

Most people know about Fourvière Basilica, the 19th-century cathedral occupying an imposing spot on the hill above the city centre, and Saint-Jean Cathedral in Vieux Lyon, but don’t miss Saint-Paul Church, also in Vieux Lyon. It’s one of the oldest churches in the city, built in the sixth century AD. 

In Lyon, people are attracted to the street art, and one of the best things to do is to walk around spotting the optical illusion wall murals that trick passers by in all areas of the city. There are more than 100 to find, and they’re known locally as trompe-l’œil. 

My city is fantastic all year round, but to see Lyon at its best, avoid August, when temperatures soar and many business owners close up shop to holiday by the coast.

Most people think of my city as a place to experience the best of French cuisine, and they’re not wrong, but fusion cuisine is fantastic here too. I particularly recommend the North African and Asian restaurants in La Guillotière.

This is one of the best places in the world to experience city life with the mountains at your fingertips. Locals love to go for a day of skiing during the winter, before returning to the city in the evening to dance the night away in underground jazz bars.

Getting Around Lyon

One thing you should know about getting around my city is that two wheels are most efficient. Lyon has over 800 kilometres of bike lanes. 

Cycling is the best low-impact way of getting around Lyon. On a bike, you can follow the riverside trails, which have the best views. The metro system is also comprehensive, easy to use, and costs €1.90 for a trip anywhere in the city.

Outside the Town

To get away and into the outdoors, I like to head to one of the mountainous national parks in the pre-Alps. My favourite is Chartreuse Regional Park, just over an hour away.

For a day trip just beyond my city, I like to visit the Beaujolais vineyards. The closest are only half an hour from Lyon, but for the best views (and wine!) I recommend Juliénas, an hour’s drive.

Many people will head to Pérouges, a fortified mediaeval town, but I prefer the golden stone buildings and relaxed village feel in the Monts d’Or, which is, in fact, closer to central Lyon and accessible with city transport.

The best view of my city is from Fourvière Basilica. On a clear day you can even see Mont Blanc.

Connecting with Locals

When I want to have fun and celebrate being out in my city, I hit the peniches, the boat bars which line the banks of the Rhône. The Star Ferry has a reliably good atmosphere.  

To hang out with my friends and go to a real insider spot, I go to Hot Club, an underground jazz bar that has regular jam sessions open to amateurs and professionals alike.

The best resource for finding out what’s going on around town is Lyon CityCrunch, a free magazine and website that serves as my encyclopaedia for all the best plans.

When I want to enjoy my city without spending much (or any) money, I grab a bottle of Côtes du Rhône from a supermarket and uncork it on the banks of the Rhône River with friends. In good weather there’ll be plenty of people playing music, skateboarding, and even practising circus skills.

Le Transbordeur is my first choice for music because it has a consistently fantastic line-up of visiting French and international artists. And when I feel like dancing, I go to Cabana Café for Latino beats and dancing so well choreographed you’ll struggle to believe you’re not in a Rosalía music video.

Finding Solitude in Lyon

When I want to go somewhere to sit and escape the crowds in Lyon, I head to Grand Parc Miribel Jonage, a 2,200-hectare park with numerous lakes for wild swimming. 

The place that makes me proudest when I’m showing friends Lyon is the seasonal rooftop bar at l’Opéra (open May through October). From here you can watch the sun set over Fourvière and look down into the courtyard of the Hôtel de Ville.

Lyon
Photo: Anna Richards

When the Seasons Change, Lyon Shines

Spring (March through May) is the best time to explore Lyon and the surrounding areas by bike. Temperatures are warming up, but it’s not too hot. Cycling downriver for a couple of hours takes you to the historic Roman city of Vienne (or take the train; it’s less than 30 minutes). Vienne has one of the largest markets in the country on Saturdays.

I always recommend visitors head to the Centre nautique Tony Bertrand in the summer (June through August). It’s an open-air pool with views over the river and Fourvière Basilica.

The fall (September through November) is the best time to drink wine. Each November, Beaujolais Nouveau, the newly harvested wine, is uncorked, with much merriment, wine tastings, wine-fuelled marathons, and music.

The winter (December through February) is when the city lights up with the Fête des Lumières (France’s largest lights festival) and Christmas markets.

Anna Richards

Local Expert

Anna is a travel and outdoor writer living in Lyon, France. Drawn by mountain peaks, fine wine and obligatory long lunch breaks, she’s been living in France full time since 2021. An avid explorer, Anna travels slowly and sustainably where possible, often undertaking long odysseys on foot, the most recent being four weeks solo hiking the Transcaucasian Trail across Armenia. When she’s not disappearing into the wild, she can often be found eating and drinking her way around Lyon in the name of “research.” Her work has been featured in the BBC, The Independent, Lonely Planet, and many other publications.

Time to Read:  8 Minutes
Local Expert: Anna Richards
8 December 2022
Category:
Destination Guide

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How to Tell Whether an Eco-Lodge is Legitimate
True eco-lodges should have a minimal environmental footprint while positively impacting people living in surrounding communities. | Photo: Maxime Doré on Unsplash

How to Tell Whether an Eco-Lodge is Legitimate

Greenwashing is common in the tourism industry. Alexandra Wrigley offers eight things travellers should know when choosing an accommodation that claims to be an eco-lodge.

As the climate crisis hits, more people are striving to travel consciously and reduce their environmental footprint. Likewise, more businesses want to reduce their impact on the environment.

Arguably, this is exciting. However, some companies within the tourism sector try to take advantage of this by promoting their businesses as “eco-friendly.” When travelling, you may see accommodations claiming to be environmentally conscious and using “eco-friendly” buzzwords. 

How do you know you’re staying in one? Here are eight tips to ensure your accommodation is as environmentally friendly as it claims to be.

1. It should positively impact the local community.

Eco-lodges benefit people living in the surrounding community, which often means they hire local people as staff and guides. Moreover, these employees should be paid fairly.

Beyond paying employees, check to see how the eco-lodge helps local communities. This might mean the business donates to local non-profit organisations, or perhaps they are involved in local conservation programmes.

2. Construction should respect and benefit people and the environment.

When the building was constructed, it should have made a minimal impact on the natural surroundings. The landscape should have remained relatively untouched and unspoiled from the construction.

Take a look at the techniques and materials or resources used to construct it. They should reflect the surrounding environment and use locally sourced resources. The furniture and furnishings should be typical of the country, or at least sourced from within it. It is ideal to have as much made locally as possible, versus having things imported. 

Another thing to consider is how the building of this business benefited local people. Ideally, local craftspeople were employed to build it, allowing for an investment back into the local economy. 

3. Any on-site food services should use local ingredients.

If the accommodation has a restaurant, it should use local ingredients. Many eco-lodges have their own gardens, so take a look to see if your meal might be grown right on the property. Ingredients might also be sourced at local markets. 

It’s okay to ask which foods are available seasonally in the region. Don’t be afraid to use your common sense: If you find pineapples in the middle of the winter season, they’ve clearly been imported.

4. Single-use plastics should be kept to a minimum.

With today’s plastic crisis, many eco-lodges have either gone plastic-free or are working to eliminate plastic from their operations. If there are water bottles, plastic wrappers, or any other disposable plastic objects, check to see if there is also a way to recycle them. If so, the property may have a waste system where specific kinds of waste are sorted and disposed of. 

A good indication of whether an accommodation is committed to eliminating plastic waste is whether it’s found alternatives for commonly used plastic items. For example, eco-lodges might swap single-use toiletry bottles with multi-use cleansing bars. Or, they might use biodegradable wrapping for room amenities, limiting the use of plastic. Likewise, plastic drinking straws can be switched for those made of bamboo or copper. Additionally, some eco-lodges now remove complimentary water in plastic bottles from rooms, and instead provide guests with glass jars to fill up with drinking water from a filter.

Eco-Lodge
Eco lodge construction should have a minimal impact on the natural surroundings.

5. Guests should be advised about their water consumption.

Eco-lodges care about and respect the environment, which means they strive to conserve water. One common thing to see are notices about the number of times towels and bed linens are washed. There are often instructions promoting the benefits of reusing towels and linens. 

Sometimes eco-lodges also have filtration systems in place and recycle waste water. Additionally, washing machines should minimise water usage. You can ask about this.

6. Energy resources should be renewable.

Take a look at the energy sources the lodge uses. Solar panels can be used to generate electricity and help heat water. There might also be alternative forms of energy generation, such as wind power.

Within the property – and even in your room – take a look at the lightbulbs. If they are low wattage or LED, that’s a good sign. To limit light usage, there might also be built-in sensors inside the rooms. 

7. Guest education is important.

In addition to constructing and running an environmentally friendly accommodation, property owners should inform guests on how they can respect and benefit the environment during their stay. Look for instructions or notices located around the lodge, such information in bathrooms, at restaurants, and in guest rooms.

8. There is always room for improvement.

Most eco-lodges should already be doing everything noted here, but this is often the minimum of what it means to be “eco-friendly.” What they do beyond this is what makes them a truly dedicated eco-lodge. For example, I was once told, “You know it’s an eco-lodge when they have a freshwater filtering pool.” Look out for that extra effort and intention.

What You Should Know About Greenwashing

Sometimes companies cling to buzzwords like “eco” and “environmentally friendly” when they haven’t actually taken any action. Often companies spend excess amounts of money on marketing on how “green” they are. This gives potential customers the impression they care about the environment, but the reality is they don’t have green policies in place. This is commonly known as greenwashing.   

To detect if an eco-lodge is greenwashing, don’t trust slogans or neutral colours used in advertising. Look for the proof that environmentally friendly policies are actually in place. Companies should be able to fully elaborate on their policies and clearly communicate what their actions are. As a conscious traveller, you have the right to ask questions and decide for yourself whether an accommodation truly is an eco-lodge

Alexandra Wrigley

Activist

Alexandra Wrigley is a copywriter and content writer from the United Kingdom. Her primary focus is centered around tech and travel. She loves to write on her blog in her downtime.

Time to Read:  4 Minutes
Activist: Alexandra Wrigley
8 December 2022
Category:
Burning Issues

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Waste is a Problem on Nepal’s Popular Trekking Routes — Here are Some Solutions
Tourists on the way from Machhapuchhre Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp. | Photo: Pooja Duwal

Waste is a Problem on Nepal’s Popular Trekking Routes — Here are Some Solutions

Waste disposal initiatives and the development of new trekking areas offer some solutions for managing garbage left behind in Nepal’s wilderness areas, but travellers also need to take more responsibility for their actions.

Nepal’s landscape has carved out some of the best trekking trails in the world. Tagged as the “trekker’s paradise” by Lonely Planet, Nepal offers rugged and strenuous but rewarding trails leading to scenic Annapurna, Mt Everest, and many other peaks. 

According to Nepal’s tourism statistics from 2020, the greatest number of foreign visitors to national parks and conservation areas from 2015 to 2020 were in the Annapurna Conservation Area (ACA), Chitwan National Park, and Sagarmatha National Park. The Annapurna and Sagarmatha regions are popular for their trekking trails. 

Tourists arrive in these areas with heavy backpacks, which are often emptied along the trekking trails. Prior to the COVID-19 outbreak, there were approximately 180,000 tourists in the ACA annually. It is estimated each tourist brings, on average, at least one member of support staff as a guide, porter, or cook, which means there are approximately 360,000 people in the area every year. 

With an increasing number of people, impact on the environment is inevitable. Bikhyat Sherchan from the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC), which oversees the ACA Project, said that in rural, inaccessible places, incinerators are commonly used to dispose of waste. In places where consumption is high, collection points for plastic products are set up in multiple places. When it crosses a certain threshold, waste is transported down multiple times through carriers. 

“Until today, there’s no recycling infrastructure along the trekking trails. So, we need to carry the waste down, which is quite cost-intensive,” Sherchan said. 

There are fewer visitors in Sagarmatha, but tourism’s impact is said to be greater. To deal with such impacts, local non-governmental organisations like Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) are working on issues like garbage collection and waste management. 

During the 2022 autumn trekking season, the Carry Me Back initiative resumed. The main aim of this programme is to transport semi-processed recyclable materials, such as aluminium cans and PET bottles, for recycling with voluntary support from trekkers. For this, there is a pick-up station at the police checkpoint at the entrance of Namche Bazaar where anyone can pick up a one-kilogram bag on their way back to Kathmandu. Then, they can leave the bags at the drop-off station located near Lukla gate. In the last two trekking seasons, 3,250 trekkers participated in the Carry Me Back programme, removing 5,300 kilograms of waste from the mountains. 

Removing waste from the mountains is even more necessary, as decomposition of solid waste is an extremely slow process in the delicate ecosystem. It can only be managed with strategies like recycling, waste management, and, more importantly, waste prevention. 

Today, the waste problem is not only limited to solid waste. It is slowly making its way to pristine rivers and other sites. The water sources along the major trails in the Sagarmatha region are reported to be contaminated from improper affluent discharge, human waste, and garbage dumping. 

SPCC also sells certificates of achievement to interested people who complete a trek in the Everest region. All proceeds from certificate sales go to the SPCC Solid Waste Management Fund to support its waste management activities in Khumbu.

Along with participating in these organisational measures, individual trekkers also have a responsibility. Travellers often carry extra products to make trekking more comfortable. However, almost every item comes with waste that needs to be disposed of. Single-use plastic waste needs to be avoided as much as possible. And, any waste generated during trips should be carried back. 

plastic waste
Pollution on the Annapurna mountain range in the Himalayas

Sherchan also recommended travelling with a guide who is well-versed in local rules and regulations, and who can help trekkers make eco-conscious decisions.  

“While reaching out to tourists through brochures, we ask them to have a minimum footprint attitude,” Sherchan said. “For nature-based tourism, they need to be more conscious. And this is all voluntary. Travellers need to be conscious of what they consume and if they are bringing it back.” This can mean opting for local food instead of packaged goods or choosing not to have several cans of beer (without carrying the empty cans back). 

In a country like Nepal, which has limited capacity and resources, dealing with waste has always been a challenge. The tourism sector is no exception. Thus, trekkers who help to sustain livelihoods by spending money with local businesses also need to be mindful about what they don’t pay for or simply leave behind. 

To better manage existing resources, tourism can also be diverted to new alternatives. In Nepal, there are many other trekking trails being recognised and revived. Even within the Annapurna region, trekking trails to Kapuche Glacier Lake (the world’s lowest glacier lake), Kori Highlands, and Mardi Himal (a side trek to Annapurna base camp) are getting much-needed recognition among domestic tourists. Another newly discovered trekking trail is Mundhum Trail in eastern Nepal. Some of these trails offer not only natural landscapes but also provide an opportunity to learn more about the diverse culture and communities found along the path. 

Visiting these new trails allows tourists to avoid crowded destinations while preventing overburdening a place’s carrying capacity, especially during peak seasons. But special care also needs to be given so that tourism is sustainably introduced in new areas. Trekkers should be mindful of what they carry with them not only in the popular destinations, but in these less-visited areas as well. 

Above all else, trekkers must be open to experiences that local places have to offer without relying unnecessarily on what they carry. This is followed by another piece of golden advice: Pack in and pack out everything you carry on your trek.  

Shuvangi Khadka

Activist

Shuvangi Khadka is an independent writer and researcher based in Kathmandu, Nepal. She is also one of the editors of The Pomelo, an e-magazine which explores Himalayan voices. Currently, she is working on a short documentary film. You can follow her work on Instagram.

Time to Read:  4 Minutes
Activist: Shuvangi Khadka
8 December 2022
Category:
Burning Issues

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Time Stands Still in Taal Heritage Town
The waters from the Miraculous Well of Sta. Lucia in Taal Heritage Town are said to have healing powers. | Photo: Rhea Vitto Tabora

Time Stands Still in Taal Heritage Town

Was it the awe-inspiring interiors of colonial-era buildings or the miraculous healing well water that transported Rhea Vitto Tabora back in time? Or was the opportunity to reflect on a place in a new way?

As we neared the town, my eyes sparkled with anticipation as I looked eagerly out the car window. I’d seen pictures and videos of Taal Heritage Town and its colonial architecture online, but I was unprepared for what it would look like when the past met the present right in front of my eyes.

My husband, 14-year-old son, and I had driven from Manila, a three-hour drive north from the heritage town. Stepping out of the car, I felt like I had stepped back in time — and was a world away from the Philippines’ bustling capital city. Our heads swiveled, taking in the ancestral homes, old churches and schools, and central plaza, all reminiscent of the Spanish colonial era and very much alive with more than 60,000 residents yet preserved as if frozen in time. 

The towering Minor Basilica of St. Martin de Tours, a baroque-style Roman Catholic Church, is the town’s crown jewel. Also called Taal Basilica, the church stands majestically against the bright blue sky. Stepping inside, I gasped at the detailed religious murals painted on the dome ceilings in the trompe-l’oeil style. My eyes wandered over the antique sculptures of religious figures and the gigantic Doric-style altar, trying to imagine all that this interior had witnessed since its construction in 1575. Reconstructed multiple times over the years after being damaged by natural disasters, Taal Basilica is said to be the largest Catholic church in Southeast Asia. 

We passed by the central plaza and it was full of life. The adults were chatting and laughing while the children were playing piko (hopscotch), seemingly oblivious to the sun’s brightness on a cloudless day. Some people were talking about the upcoming fiesta while others were happily joking around, simply enjoying each other’s company.

Many locals smiled at us as we walked around, likely because they could tell we were new to the town. We had great conversations with some of them. One of the friendly Taaleños we spoke with was named Raul. He offered us a ride on his tricycle so that he could give us a tour, but we politely declined and told him that wanted to explore every corner of this charming city on foot.

He spoke about Taal Heritage Town with pride: “I’m blessed to have been born and raised here. This place is truly special to me, and it has a lot of meaning. My great-grandfather was one of the first settlers in this area, and as a mason, he helped build one of the historic landmarks that are still standing today.”

Taal Heritage Town
The town’s crown jewel: Minor Basilica of St. Martin de Tours

Raul was referring to Marcela and Felipe Agoncillo Museum. It used to be the home of Marcela and Felipe Agoncillo, where the couple often hosted Filipino expatriates fighting for independence from Spanish rule. Today, it is one of Taal’s most significant heritage sites. Marcela played an important role in Philippine history as she was the primary seamstress of the country’s first official flag. 

“Her home has been turned into a museum dedicated to preserving her legacy, and it means a lot to us Taaleños,” Raul said, beaming with pride.

As we made our way to the next Spanish-Filipino ancestral home, we started chatting with another local resident. We asked him what it’s like to live in Taal Heritage Town. “It’s a special home for many of us. It’s like a living museum,” he said. “My great-grandfather used to serve in one of these heritage houses, and I grew up playing on the same streets.” 

Though Taal Heritage Town isn’t part of my story, these stories made me feel connected to something much bigger than myself —like I was part of a long chain of history stretching back centuries before me. 

While chatting with locals, we also learned some interesting facts about Taal Heritage Town that most visitors don’t know about. For example, Taal Heritage Town is home to a sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Caysasay, a miraculous wooden image believed to be more than 400 years old! It was said to be caught by fisherman Juan Maningcad in 1603 while fishing in the nearby Pansipit River. 

With this fact in our back pockets, we went looking for the Shrine of Our Lady of Caysasay. The small chapel was known as the poor man’s church back in the day. A staircase at the back of the altar caught our attention. At the top, we discovered the room where the image of Virgin Mary was encased.

Outside the church, we met a girl named Mariel chatting happily with other kids her age. Since we looked like first-time visitors, she suggested we visit the Miraculous Wells of Sta. Lucia. These wells have water with healing power, she told us, leading us on the short walk from the chapel. 

Stopping at the entrance of what looked like Aztec ruins, Mariel introduced us to the older man who was in charge. “We heard these wells have miraculous powers,” I said. “Is that actually true?” He nodded, pointing out that this was the exact spot where Our Lady of Caysasay was first seen in 1611

He invited us to the twin wells, which were marked by a coral stone arch. Carved into the top part of the arch was an image of Our Lady Of Caysasay. He encouraged us to cleanse our faces and hands with the water to eliminate all our worries and illnesses. Surely we had nothing to lose with that offer. The caretaker scooped water from the well using a white plastic bucket tied to a two-metre bamboo pole, which served as its handle. We each took a turn washing our faces and hands. Was it the refreshing cold, clear water? Maybe it was the power of positive thinking. I can’t explain it, but as I walked away from the Miraculous Well of Sta. Lucia, I felt different. A bit more relaxed. A little more connected. Somehow, I just felt better.

I let that feeling linger as we made our way back to the población, the central area in the main town. Mariel reappeared, encouraging us to take the 125 steps of San Lorenzo Ruiz Steps. Making our way up these steps, poking into every corner of the town, winding along the streets, and stopping to chat with people we met along the way who call this place home, the passing of time seemed irrelevant — not only in this town but for us as well. 

Daylight turned into sunset, and it was finally time for us to leave. As our car drove away from Taal Heritage Town, I held onto those feelings of awe, reflection, and connection. Looking out my window one last time, the centuries-old structures now seemed like old friends. Aspects of Filipino culture I had only ever read about or seen pictures of were now tangible and real.

And, I realized, Taal Heritage Town, which is known by some people as a living museum, is so much more than that: Filled with stories and memories, it’s a place where history lives on, but it’s also very much alive.

Rhea Vitto Tabora

Storyteller

Rhea Vitto Tabora is a professional travel writer with more than 14 years of experience working in the hospitality industry in Vietnam and Indonesia. She returned to her home country, the Philippines, in 2014 to pursue her dream of writing about amazing places and creating content for hotel and tourism brands while also travelling. Her work has been published in Travel Asia Now, Arrivedo, Daily Tribune, and Mise En Place Asia magazine, as well as various hotel websites.

Time to Read:  6 Minutes
Storyteller: Rhea Vitto Tabora
8 December 2022
Category:
Local Stories - Customs and Traditions

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A Flamenco Friendship Born During the Pandemic
Instead of showing up for her typical virtual flamenco lesson, Louise Slyth surprised her teacher in person. | Photo: Taller Flamenco Sevilla

A Flamenco Friendship Born During the Pandemic

Of all the things Louise Slyth expected when she began taking virtual flamenco classes during the COVID-19 lockdown, forging a deeper bond to one of her favourite cities and making lasting connections wasn’t one of them. 

As first meetings go, this was one of my strangest. 

I was familiar with the territory, but way out of my comfort zone. I’ve been a regular visitor to Andalucía’s capital since living in Spain ten years ago. It was love at first sight: From the charming Moorish architecture and the fallen oranges scattered through the cobbled streets to the eternally temperate weather, there is nothing not to love about Seville.  

The people are as warm and friendly as the weather, but it was one particular person I was on my way to meet. Seville is known as the home of flamenco, and that day I was nervously making my way through the searing Sevillian heat to a dance school in the heart of the hip La Alameda District.  

Long before I ever visited Spain, the passion and dynamism of flamenco captivated me. I often thought about learning, but it just seemed so unlikely. I’m not naturally graceful and always dismissed the notion in favour of more sensible pursuits.  

Yet sometimes the universe has a way of giving you a much-needed kick up the butt. I was born in Edinburgh but now live in Dublin. Ireland spent most of 2020 in some form of lockdown, and it was during the first of those, out of sheer boredom (and hoping to gain some tenuous link to far-off shores) that I signed up for Zoom-based flamenco lessons with a bona fide Sevillian flamenco school. 

Learning flamenco seemed improbable but not impossible. At the very least, it would be a connection to the outside world when I was limited to a five-kilometre radius. I embarked on my lessons with a mixture of hope and trepidation. Not only was I learning to dance, but I was also learning in Spanish. My Spanish was rusty; would that be an impediment? 

I had two amazing flamenco teachers, Carmen and Lourdes. Lourdes became my regular teacher, and we often had a bit of a chat at the start of our lessons. Despite the miles and the differences in our backgrounds, over the course of 18 months, we made a connection. Even over Zoom, she saw that I was afraid to let go of my inhibitions and constantly overthought everything.  

Lourdes is a wonderful teacher and beyond patient with me but would often berate me: “Menos concentración más pasión,” she would say: Less concentration, more passion!  

She explained that I was concentrating so much on getting the choreography right that I looked unhappy. Flamenco is about passion and pride, so regardless of whether I was getting it right, I should just keep my head up and enjoy it. 

“Keep your head up and enjoy it” is a pretty good mantra for life. Over time I improved and could successfully complete a little choreography, but I realised that it was never really about being a great dancer. It was about ticking something off my bucket list and feeling that I still had a link to my beloved Spain.  

When COVID-19 restrictions ended, Seville was the obvious choice for my first holiday. 

I hatched a plan with the dance school coordinator to turn up at my regularly scheduled Zoom lesson in person. As I waited nervously in the cool air of the empty dance studio, I felt like a fool. Would she be touched that I’d made the effort, or think I was crazy?

When Lourdes entered the room, her flamenco shoes tapping staccato on the floor, I could almost see the thoughts crossing her face. 

“Who are you and why are you in my studio?”  

Then, “Do I know you?”  

And then finally, recognition. 

She rushed over and embraced me warmly. I had been a bit skittish about hugging people but didn’t hesitate to reciprocate. 

We all made and lost connections during the pandemic. Some of the most profound ones were those we least expected. There we were: a Spanish dance teacher and a Scottish student, clinging to each other with tears of joy in our eyes. “Que mala,” she chastised me, wondering why I hadn’t told her I was coming. 

Our first and only in-person lesson ended far too soon. As I left the studio and headed off for a tapa and cerveza in the sweltering evening heat, I was greeted by the joyful squeals of children playing in the Alameda de Hércules.  

Seville will always hold a special place in my heart. Of all the things I expected when I began flamenco classes, forging a deeper bond to one of my favourite cities and making lasting connections wasn’t one of them. 

I’m glad I made the effort to meet Lourdes in person. I’m glad I took the risk. 

After all, if you don’t live life con pasión, you aren’t really living.

Louise Slyth

Traveller

Louise Slyth is a communications consultant and freelance writer. Born in Edinburgh, she has lived in Sydney and Barcelona, and now resides in Dublin with her husband. Her work has been featured in publications around the world, including HuffPost, Stylist, The Independent and The Ethel, to name but a few. When she’s not writing, she’s planning her next trip. You can connect with her on Instagram.

Time to Read:  4 Minutes
Traveller: Louise Slyth
1 December 2022
Category:
Travellers' Tales

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